Removing Default Judgments From Credit Reports & Public Records

Have you ever gone and applied for credit or pulled your credit to qualify to buy a car or house and the finance manager or loan officer tells you that you  have to take care of a judgment in order to qualify and you say, "What judgment?"  I hear it quite a bit. This usually happens because you got sued and never were properly served. I see this happening a lot to people who have been sued by 3rd party debt collectors.

If you've read much of my blog, you know that I absolutely loathe debt collectors. These companies are the scum of the earth.  They have no business meddling in your life. They play dirty, violate the law, and should never get a dime from any consumer.  What is really rotten is when they sue you.  They file a lot of lawsuits because they know that most consumers will not fight back and they get default judgments.  If they think you might be a fighter, or they just don't want to take the chance of that, many times they will improperly serve you a summons and complaint or not even serve you at all. If you don't know about the lawsuit, you won't fight it and they'll win by default.

Courts do NOT furnish these judgments, or any judgments for that matter, to your credit reports. They don't verify them with the credit bureaus either when you dispute them.  These are furnished to the bureaus by data diggers. They scour the public records to find new public records and I believe they are paid to furnish them to the credit bureaus.  These data diggers are considered "Vendors" by or to the credit bureaus and they are the ones who both furnish and verify the disputes with the credit bureaus.

This really pisses me off because they are not qualified to do either of these things and when you demand that the bureaus give you the contact information for the person who verified, they lie and give you the court's address and contact info and never expose the true furnisher of the information nor who claims to have verified the information.  I say that they are not qualified because in order to verify something, you have to have first hand knowledge and the full documentation to back it up. They have neither.

But let's talk about how you remove them. Before I explain the following process, let me state that paying off a judgment does not make it come off your credit report. When you are repairing your credit, you will dispute the judgment with the credit bureaus.  You need to give a specific error.  You can say things like, I have never had a valid judgment for $xxx.  Or, I didn't lose any lawsuit on 1/1/01 or whatever date they are reporting.  You need to spin it if it looks sort of accurate.  You can challenge the court location, dates, amounts, plaintiff, missing information, inaccurate information, even the age being obsolete if its too old to even be on a credit report. You must be VERY CAREFUL not to admit anything about the judgment.  Use "I don't recall..." if you have to but don't even hint at admitting to it.

At the same time you are disputing with the bureaus, send a letter off to the court requesting their method of furnishing information and verifying information with the credit bureaus.  Do not get specific. Do not include your social security number. Do not include any case numbers. Do not reference ANY specific case.  You are only inquiring about whether or not they furnish information and verify information with the credit bureaus.  Make sure you include a self addressed stamped envelope so that they can send you a response quickly.

You should have the response from the court back before you even get your bureau responses back. This is most of the time.  Sometimes courts fail to respond.  When this happens, I think that there's a clerk or court employee that is intentionally trying to make it difficult for you to remove your public record items because they believe you deserve it.  I'm just very suspicious of them like that. I like to see the good in people but I've seen so much that I just have a hard time giving them the benefit of the doubt.  Anyhow, hopefully they will answer your inquiry properly so that you will have some good ammunition for your next round of bureau disputes.

Hopefully your bureau disputes will come back showing that the judgment has been deleted.  But if it comes back as "Verified", you will need to do another round.  This time, your dispute will be, you told me to contact the court regarding the verification of this item. Please see the attached letter I received from the court when I did as you told me to do. They had nothing to do with this information and they certainly didn't verify it.  Please either give me the contact information of the liars who claimed to have verified this or delete it.  Make sure you have attached a copy of the letter from the court and you can also include an FTC staff opinion letter that I use and highlight, that states bureaus are allowing inaccurate public record information on credit reports.

This time, your bureau responses should come back showing the judgment deleted.  But, sometimes they do, sometimes they don't. Bureaus will occasionally claim they can't use the supporting documentation that you sent with your dispute and its still verified.  Even though the correct and lawful response would be that it has been deleted, unfortunately, bureaus are big lawbreakers too.

We are moving on now to the next section. Whether or not you removed your judgment from the credit report it will still be in the public records.  If you are buying or selling property, when they do a Title search, they will find this judgment and underwriting for your mortgage may require that you pay it off as will escrow for sellers to be able to close.  Credit repair does NOT remove the judgments from public records.  But, getting the judgment vacated with the court sure does!

Now, this is good for everyone who hasn't been able to get it off the credit reports.  I also want to reiterate that this is ONLY FOR DEFAULT JUDGMENTS!  Removing a judgment from a public record should cause your next dispute to the bureaus to finally delete it off your credit reports.

DISCLAIMER:  THIS IS NOT LEGAL ADVISE!! THIS IS "HOW TO" INFORMATION BASED ON MY OPINIONS, MY EXPERIENCES, RESULTS FROM PUTTING IT INTO PRACTICE AND MY KNOWLEDGE GAINED FROM RESEARCH AND PRACTICAL APPLICATION RESULTING IN CONSISTENT SUCCESSES ONLY. I AM NOT CLAIMING TO BE A BAR ATTORNEY. (I refuse to stoop to that level or be insulted to that degree).

You will need to get the judgment vacated at the court level. This means you will need to file a Motion to Vacate and Set Aside the judgment, and Motion to Stay the Execution of the judgment. You will also need an Answer to the lawsuit which will be entered as an attachment to your Motion to Vacate.

Court rules vary from state to state and county to county. Sometimes courts have rules specific to that court.  There are 2 arguments that can be raised to get a judgment vacated.  The first one is the one most often used and pretty much the only one that an attorney would use. It is a Motion to Vacate for Lack of or Improper Service.  What this means is that you weren't served at all or they didn't serve you properly.  They may have served the wrong address. But for whatever reason, you were not timely and properly notified that you were being sued.  There is also an argument to be made that you were in the hospital at that time or out of the state/country, and didn't get served properly.  They may have done what is called "Substituted Service" because they weren't able to serve you personally.

You will need to pull the full case file and buy a copy of everything in that file. You will want to see the Summons and Complaint (sometimes called a Warrant of Debt), the proof of service, any affidavits that were included, and anything else in that file.  You will be using these items and the information they contain, especially in their Complaint, which has "Causes of Action" to form your defense for both your motions and your Answer.

Remember I talked about court rules?  Well, its very common to see a deadline to file a Motion to Vacate within 6 months of discovering that you had a judgment.  So, when you find out about it and you want to use this defense, you will usually need to get your motion filed into the court and served upon that plaintiff within 6 months.

Now the 2nd argument that can be raised to be granted a Motion to Vacate, and again, this is ONLY for DEFAULT judgments, is the court's lack of Jurisdiction. A default judgment is considered a "Void" judgment and it can be challenged AT ANY TIME - There is NO Statute of Limitations to challenge a default judgment.  The court lacks jurisdiction because there are 4 requires items for every case.  A Plaintiff; A Defendant (Whoops, that was missing); Subject Matter; and A Competent Witness.  

When the court grants a default judgment, there was No Defendant. That means the court lacked Personal Jurisdiction.  If when you pull the file you find that the Plaintiff didn't include an affidavit from a "Competent Witness" (one who has first hand knowledge and is qualified to testify - not hearsay!), then the court also had no Subject Matter Jurisdiction.  Also, subject matter jurisdiction can be challenged at any time and the case cannot move forward until the PLAINTIFF establishes, proves it.

Here is the beauty of vacating default judgments, especially when using the argument of the court's lack of jurisdiction. As I stated, default judgments are Void judgments and can be challenged at any time with NO statute of limitations.  What this means is that if you look at the Date of Last Activity for the original account, and had there not been a judgment it would now be outside that Statute of Limitations for debt, once that judgment is vacated, that debt is now considered Time-Barred and they can't come back and sue you again!  While a judgment is active, they can pursue payment until the statute of limitations for judgments expires.

So keep in mind these Statutes of Limitations:

State statute of limitations on debt is based on the Date of Last Activity (when you last made a payment.

State statute of limitations for judgments - based off the date of judgment and runs for usually at least 10 years but it varies by state.

Statute of Limitations for vacating a Default Judgment - ABSOLUTELY NONE!

So the moral of the story here is, be excited for default judgments. If you get sued, even served properly, but are not prepared to fight and doubt you could win (you probably could if you knew how to fight it properly), don't be afraid to get that default judgment.  You have the ability to reopen the case when you are ready. vacate it, and if you can hold off the vultures trying to collect on that judgment until the debt statute of limitations has passed, you can totally get rid of it from the public records as well as your credit reports.  

Oh, PS.  It is much more wise to vacate a judgment than to file a bankruptcy to get out of paying off a judgment.  Filing a BK will add 10 more years of crap credit to your credit reports and they are a pain in the butt to remove. Save those BK filings for emergencies such as one of your strategies for avoiding foreclosure. By the way, if you are facing foreclosure and want to fight, you can contact me for a referral to a friend of mine who is massively successful, its what he does for a living, and just so you know that he knows what he's doing, he's been in his house now without making a payment for over 11 years. 

If you would like someone to help you remove your judgments from your credit reports, I can help you with that. Though it is illegal to guarantee results, my partner and I do use an escalated and proprietary process that generally removes them in approximately 30 days and we have a 100% success rate.  I would love to help you remove your judgments, your tax liens, your collections, etc. and help you raise your scores so you can have that fresh start you so deserve! You can find my contact information on the top right of this blog. Both my email and phone number are there for you to reach out to me.

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How To Beat Debt Collectors At Their Game

Last month I focused a lot on 3rd party debt collectors going after foreclosed homeowners and the deficiency they feel they are entitled to. This month, I'm going to go more into detail on how to beat these collection companies no matter what type of collection account they are on the warpath for money over.

If you receive a notice in the mail from a debt collector telling you that you now owe them for some debt, maybe its a medical collection or a charged off credit card, or even the difference left over after a car repo, it should tell you clearly that you have 30 days to dispute the debt.  If the first contact you have with a debt collection company is that they call you on the phone, you can confirm your name if you want, but do not confirm your birth date, your social security number, your phone number, your address, or anything else.  Do not acknowledge that alleged debt.  Tell them you do not communicate with companies like theirs over the phone and if they have something to say to you, they can put it in writing and mail it to you.

Once you have received that letter, its time to start the fight. You want to immediately fire off a letter disputing the alleged debt and demanding validation.  I go so far as to not even call their account number an account number. Its a reference number.  I do this because there is no way I'm going to acknowledge that my client has an account with them.  This is their own made up account number to try and make you think their claim is legitimate. So, this is where you start to fight back.

Your validation letter should tell them that you are responding to their letter and you do dispute their claims. In fact, you will need them to validate and prove to you that you owe them that alleged debt.  You see, there may be some alleged debt, but do you owe it?  That's what they need to prove.  Don't fall for the lame Chaudhry minimum standard of "verification" of the alleged debt. You don't need verification and they can't provide that anyhow since they are a 3rd party.

You are demanding validation, which is the proof, the documentation that supports their claim.  You are entitled to receive from them a copy of the contract showing you agreed to do business with them. That means that the contract names them as the creditor that actually lent something to you of value, and your name agreeing to compensate them or pay them back for what they claim they lent you.  Then it has to have your signature on it.  A contract between you and the alleged original creditor is not a contract between you and the 3rd party collector and it isn't full validation.

You will also need to tell them to provide proof that they own the alleged debt or that they have been authorized to demand payment, which means its been assigned to them by the original creditor.  Sometimes they will send a bill of sale, and that doesn't happen too often, and occasionally though rare, they'll send you a copy of their assignment. But sending this, even with a copy of the original agreement, is not full validation.

You are also entitled to ask them to provide a full accounting.  This is not just 3 years(or however many they send) of billing statements but also means an accounting ledger. The accounting ledger should show every charge, every fee, interest added, credits, debits, payments, every single event that changed the amount on the alleged account. Billing statements that show what was charged that month is important too because you have the right to say, "Hey, I didn't buy that or authorize that." Leave that for the courtroom though.  We never want to admit anything to a 3rd party debt collector.

You will also want to tell them that since they furnished information to your credit reports, they are required to have your consent to do so in writing, so they need to provide a copy of that consent or authorization.  They won't be able to provide this but this only helps remove them from the credit report. It is not part of validation and will not mean they have to stop trying to collect if they can't produce it.

A couple other things to ask for is proof that the alleged debt is not outside the statute of limitations and if you're in a state that requires licensing and/or bonding, you need to have copies of those documents as well. You also have the right to ask for a full chain of assignment, which means every collector that has ever had it in their possession, and proof that their collection fees are agreed to in the original contract. Heck you can actually even tell them that you have a right to know how much they paid for the alleged debt because that is closer to the phony baloney amount they should be trying to collect.

After you dispute with them and demand validation, you want to write to each of the credit bureaus and dispute each of the collections with them. You will do this about a week or two after you send the letters to the collectors.  This is very important because once you demand validation from a debt collector, they are required to stop all collection activity. Verifying with credit bureaus is considered collection activity and if they do it before they send you validation, they've just broken the law.  They actually need to remove the information they have furnished while its in dispute.  

Many times you will see comments on your credit report saying that "consumer disputes" or similar language.  If those comments are on a 3rd party collection account, that is a violation of law and proof that they are breaking it. Since communicating via the credit report is considered collection activity, putting a "dispute" comment on there doesn't void the fact that they are still trying to collect when they are supposed to stop all collection activity.  Its just proof that they are ignorant of the law or they don't give a rip about the law.  We're going to jump back to bureau disputes in a bit.

Now, when debt collectors respond to your dispute and demand for validation, many times they will send you the name, amount and a few tidbits of information about the alleged original account and then tell you that they have verified.  They haven't, that's hearsay. If they send you any documentation, it might look like they've proved the alleged debt, but its not validation. Its not proof you owe them.

Your response is a very important part of beating them.  You don't want to attack their response until you get the results from your bureau disputes though.  This is because not all of the collectors will usually reply to your demand to validation but they will respond to the bureau dispute by claiming they verified it.  That's a big NO-NO.  You are also going to want to check those bureau disputes and see which collectors were stupid enough to comment that the alleged account is disputed.  You will be using these things against them and this is very effective to make them hit the road.

Now that you've received your bureau dispute results back and the debt collectors that have bothered to respond to your demand to validation are pretty much all back to you, its time to contact the collection companies again.  For those that told you they are closing the file and notifying the bureaus, you don't need to send anything to them.  Just make sure they actually deleted. If they didn't you will dispute that again with the bureaus.  For those that claimed they verified, you need to get real tough with them.

Your response to those who claimed they validated or verified in response to your demand for validation, you need to tell them something like this:  "I've received your letter claiming you have validated (or verified) the above reference number. But the problem is, you didn't provide the documentation that proves I owe you anything.  Where is the contract between your company and me? Where is the full accounting because I can't just take your word for it that I owe some company I've never contracted with, some made up number?  Where is your license and bond?  In fact, from what you sent, I can see that you are trying to collect for something that is outside the statute of limitations for my state (if that is the case).  

You also haven't proved you have any right to be on my credit report because I know for a fact I've never contracted with you nor consented to you being able to make any communication on my credit reports.  You're violating the FDCPA by continuing collection activity and you're violating the FCRA by furnishing information and verifying unvalidated information, disputed information, erroneous information, when no access to my credit reports has ever been granted to you.

So, get your crap off my credit reports until you can provide some proof that I actually owe YOU! You haven't done that yet and by law, you are to cease collection activity immediately.  I reject your hearsay as being validation or verification. I reject the bills you sent as being validation because they are not. I reject any of your claims of validation or verification because you haven't proved anything."

That's pretty much how a follow up letter is written.  Now, for those that verified with the bureaus but didn't bother to even respond to your demand for validation, you should send them a letter similar to what I just gave you but blast them for verifying without even responding to your demand for validation.  You can even tell them that you intend to sue them for their FCRA and FDCPA violations if they don't remove this reference number and information they furnished to the bureaus from your reports.

Now, your follow up letters to the bureaus will be to dispute each one as having demanded validation from each one and they have not validated and therefore are still Unverified so please delete ASAP.  By the next time you get your responses back from the bureaus, you should see some great results.   Sometimes though, they just don't have any respect for the law and they keep leaving their bs on your report. You may need to keep attacking them month after month to remove these stubborn ones.

I hope that those of you who are working to improve your credit will take this information and use it.  It does work.  Its a basic attack and it's based on laws written to protect you from scum like debt collectors.  Remember, you don't owe these punks so fight to keep your hard earned money in your own pockets, not theirs.  Its your right to spend your money as you want, not give it over to these extortionists who will continue to harass you in an attempt to steal it from you if you don't knock them down and out of your lives.

Now, for those of you that want help with removing collections, we are extending our Christmas special into the New Year!  We use advanced techniques and put laws, case law, statutes, Supreme Court rulings and more in the debt collectors' faces. We go well beyond the attack shown above to get you the fastest results possible, all while staying ethical, honest, and within the law. Our special is valid through January 31, 2015.

Our special will save you anywhere from $100 - $300 depending upon the number of collections on your report, as well as other derogatory items.  To qualify for the special, you need to have at least FOUR 3rd party collectors furnishing information on your report.  You will need copies of your credit reports for all 3 major bureaus so get them together and contact us so we can help you have a new, pretty credit report in this exciting New Year!  My email address and phone number are up on the top right hand side of this blog.  I look forward to hearing from you and helping you fight the debt collectors and win!

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How To Write A Validation Letter

I get a LOT of emails asking how to write a validation letter so I'm going to try to explain it again here.  Validation letters are NOT sent to Original Creditors.  Validation letters are NOT sent to Credit Bureaus.   They are ONLY sent to 3rd Party Collectors.

When you get a letter from a collection company, the first time you receive one from that company, they should be very clear that you have a right to dispute their claim within 30 days.  This does not mean that they won't be putting it on your credit report or that they haven't already put it on your credit report.  But it does mean that they will have to immediately stop collection activity when they receive your dispute or what we call a Validation letter.

Sometimes you never get that first letter or maybe you did and you ignored it, but you have a copy of your  credit report and you see a collection account on there.  You will want to dispute this with a Validation letter as well.  Even though you may not have disputed within the first 30 days of being notified that this collection company is hot on your trail, or you never knew about it until you saw your credit report, once they get the Validation letter from you, they must stop all collection activity.

A Validation letter is demanding proof that you owe them something.  You have the right to challenge their claim and make them stop collection activity pursuant to the FDCPA (Fair Debt Collection Practices Act).  Collection activity can be phone calls where they are pressuring you to pay something, another "bill" saying to pay, and even verifying the alleged debt or updating the alleged debt on your credit report.  They must stop ALL collection activity until they prove the alleged debt is yours.  The only things they are allowed to do at this time are to 1. Prove the alleged debt is yours; 2. Mark the alleged account as "In Dispute" on your credit report; or 3. Send you a letter stating they are closing the file and removing it from your credit report - or similar language to that effect.

A Validation letter should always be sent Certified Mail and preferably with a Return Receipt.  These are some of the things that you will want to keep for your "paper trail" if you end up in court against these suckers.  So, always keep a copy of each letter sent and the certified receipt showing they got your letter. Also, keep every letter they send you. You will be able to find violations they commit and also whether or not they responded and if they sent all the information you demanded in your Validation letter.

Validation letters can be short and to the point, or long and full of laws, or anywhere in between.  The best Validation letters are the ones you write yourself. The worst to use are the ones you find all over the internet or in some book where you said everything they did, word for word.  You want to make the letter your own. Put it in your own words. If you're pissed off and feel like letting them know, well then make sure your letter gets that across to them. I believe its absolutely fine to not be nice in a letter to any collection company. They are ruthless, rude, law breaking  scum, so why would you have to be nice to them?  Write from your heart while you make sure you demand they try to prove their claims.  If that's not you, if you just would  rather be nice or plain matter of fact, that's perfectly okay too.

The letter to them will start off with a Dear Sirs, or To whom it may concern, or some sort of generic salutation. Then you tell them you either received their letter claiming you owe them something or you have a copy of your credit report and saw that they are furnishing information on it that they think you owe them something.  Then you tell them you don't believe you owe them anything and you are disputing their claim and you demand that they stop all collection activity pursuant to the FDCPA.  You don't have to put that its pursuant to anything if you don't want, but whether or not you say that, it is pursuant to the FDCPA and they know it.

Make sure you reference the alleged account number that they assigned to the alleged debt. Now you can tell them what you want them to provide to you.  You definitely want a copy of the alleged contract that shows you agreed to do business with them.  You want a copy of the contract between you and the alleged original creditor. You want a full accounting - meaning, how did they determine how much they claim you owe them.  They usually have added extra charges for interest and collection fees so they need to explain exactly how they got to the amount they are telling you to pay them.

They also need to provide proof that they have a right to collect the alleged debt.  This means they will need to show the contract between them and the original creditor, or whoever they got the alleged account from, and the full chain of assignment. This means, if they are not the first collector claiming you owe this alleged debt, they need to show every single collection company that had it from the original creditor, through every 3rd party scum bag, to them.  Now if you are in a state that requires collection companies to be licensed and/or bonded, they need to provide copies of those items as well.

Another important item that they should be able to provide to you, is the date of the last payment and proof that the alleged account is not outside the Statute of Limitations. If the alleged original account is Time-barred, this is a fantastic way to get rid of them fast.  Some companies don't care and will continue to try to collect and may even sue you on Time-barred debts.  As long as you make no payment to them, make no payment arrangement with them and never admit you owe the alleged debt, it will stay time-barred.  You have to be very, very careful here. In some states, just acknowledging that you ever owed the alleged debt is enough to start the Statute of Limitations clock all over again, so DON'T DO IT! Don't admit Anything - Ever! Don't make a payment to these fools - Ever! Don't agree to a payment plan - Ever!

The next thing I believe you should tell them, and I think its very important to say it in writing, is that under no circumstances do you authorize or give them consent to furnish any information to your credit reports nor to take any action that would result in an inquiry on your credit report from their company. You should tell them this whether they are on your credit report or not.  In order for a company to inquire or furnish information on your credit report, you must give your authorization for them to do so.  Read my previous post, just before this one, so you understand what it takes for them to be able to have anything to do with your credit report.

Now, if they are already furnishing information to your credit report, also demand that they provide a copy of your consent and/or authorization that allows them to furnish or inquire on your credit report. Remind them that without this proof, they must remove all traces of their slander from your credit reports.

You really don't need much more than this in your validation letters. If your want to, you can use case law or the actual laws that give you the right to demand everything you have told them to provide to you, just to give your letter even more weight. You can use something you find on the internet and request the same things those letters say, but again, put it in your own words.  Don't use a form letter and don't copy word for word from those letters. They just don't have as good of an effect or result  as your own letter will have.

Okay, now you've come to the end of your letter. Here is something super important. NEVER, NEVER, NEVER sign your name to the letter.  You may type it or print it, or stamp it, but Don't Sign in YOUR Handwriting!  Also, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER give them your social security number. And nowhere in your letter at all, NEVER, NEVER, EVER admit that you owe them diddly nor that the alleged original account belongs to you.  

You don't ever want to acknowledge anything other than you received their correspondence and/or you see that they are reporting on your credit reports. They are the ones that should be sending you proof.  You have NO obligation to send them copies of ANYTHING or to disclose anything to them. No copies of old bills, no social security number, no utility bills, no driver's license, no birth date, no whatever they claim you need to send them as proof of anything.  You are not the party needing to prove something - THEY ARE! 

If they are requesting you send them something, it means that they don't have what it takes to even come close to resembling validation. The minute they start asking for you to provide any type of information is time for you to tell them you know they obviously are fraudsters and have no proof of any alleged debt and they need to go pound sand.

So, this is how you write a Validation letter. Hopefully you will craft an excellent one that successfully gets them out of your life and off your credit reports. I'd like to tell you that you will probably be a lot more successful if you can respond to their initial letter within the 30 period. But if you've missed it or never received that "Dunning" notice, don't worry. You still retain your rights, you just need to exercise them and be consistent. Don't accept their claim of validation, don't accept anything other than they are ceasing the game with you and always respond until they give up and go away.

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How To Deal With Collection Agencies ~ Part 3 (State Statute Of Limitations For Credit Cards)

A lot of the bad credit that is on credit reports is from collection agencies.  But, there are original creditors too that report, so you may have 2 or more negative entries on your report for the same alleged debt.  This tool, the State Statute of Limitations (SOL) is great for both.  Now, most states have reasonable SOL's but there are a few that are absolutely insane!  When an alleged debt is outside of the SOL it is considered Time-Barred and non-collectible.  But, that doesn't stop many of these collection agencies, and some creditors, from still going after you.  What is completely ridiculous, is that they legally can!  Well, that is, unless you put a stop to them.

How do you put a stop to them, through a demand for validation and then a follow up with a Cease & Desist (C&D) letter.  Some are arrogant and greedy enough though to file a civil claim against you.  That can easily be defeated by taking their lame attempt at validation (usually some printout or a copy of the last bill from the original creditor) that clearly shows a date from years ago.   I have actually seen them dummy up a new statement with a current date on it, supposedly from the original creditor, to try to re-age and trick the alleged debtor into giving up and just paying them.

I'm going to shout now, and bang my head against a wall - DON'T DO IT!!! DON'T PAY THEM!!!

Dig around for a true old bill or contact the original creditor for a copy of the statement.  Ask them to send you back a copy of the last bill that you paid or better yet, check your credit report. Usually, the original creditor will put a somewhat accurate date on the credit report, and Equifax has a little chart that shows when you did and didn't make payments.  That is proof of the Date of Last Activity (DLA), which is when the SOL starts tolling.  If you're sued, then that will be one of your exhibits in your answer to the complaint, proving that it is time barred and they have no recourse.  Don't forget, you want to keep copies of your letters demanding validation and their responses.  It is just more proof that they didn't validate, so they are in violation of the FDCPA (continuing collection activity without validating or verifying the alleged debt).

So, let's get to it. Here are the Statute of Limitations for Open Accounts, which represent credit card accounts, which are the main type of negative credit that annoys most of us, for every US state and several territories. 

STATE	NUMBER OF YEARS	ANY COMMENTS
Alabama	3 Yrs	Actions based on fraud - 2 yrs
Alaska	3 Yrs	Used to be 6 yrs
Arizona	6 Yrs  or  4 years On July 20, 2011 AZ changed its statutes to include credit cards as written contracts. If the default/DLA is prior to 7/20/11 then the prior 3 year statute of limitations (SOL) applies. If the DLA is after 7/20/11 then the new SOL applies.  Now, the new 4 year SOL is for credit card accounts obtained outside the state of AZ and the 6 year SOL applies to credit cards obtained in the state of AZ.  So check the billing address of your credit card account to see whether your credit card is inside or outside of AZ.	Judgments have to be renewed w/in 5 yrs. Pymt w/o acknowledgment doesn't restart the SOL
Arkansas	3 Yrs	Medical 2yrs from service or last payment, whichever is latest
California	4 Yrs	SOL stopped if pymt made after SOL expires - In other words, Do Not Make Pymt after it expires! But, pymt w/o acknowledgment does not restart the SOL
Colorado	3 Yrs	Jdgmt can renew every 6 yrs
Connecticut	6 Yrs	Open is considered written
Delaware	3 Yrs	Considered a general contract
District of Columbia	3 Yrs	Oral promise restarts SOL!!
Florida	4-5 Yrs	Contract or Written instrument is 5 yrs but all other is 4 yrs. Pymt w/o acknowledgment doesn't restart the SOL
Georgia	4 Yrs	From date of default, not last pymt. Making a pymt without acknowledging the alleged debt does not restart the SOL.
Guam	6 Yrs	For contracts such as medical bills, the SOL is 4 yrs from date of service
Hawaii	6 Yrs	Jdgmt can renew 10 yrs
Idaho	4 Yrs	Jdgmt can renew 5 yrs
Illinois	5 Yrs	Pymt or promise to pay extends it to 10 yrs from that date
Indiana	6 Yrs	Pymt, acknowledgment or a promise to pay restarts the SOL
Iowa	5 Yrs	Pymt, acknowledgment or promise to pay restarts SOL
Kansas	3 Yrs	Written contracts SOL is 5 years. Many sources claim SOL for credit cards is 5 yrs but that is not so according to Article 5, 60-512 of Kansas statutes.  Pymt w/o acknowledgment doesn't restart the SOL
Kentucky	5 Yrs	Judgment 15 yrs
Louisiana	3 Yrs	Jdgmt can renew 10 yrs
Maine	6 Yrs	Jdgmt is 20 yrs (don't let that happen to you! Pymt w/o acknowledgment doesn't restart the SOL
Maryland	3 Yrs	Reaffirming through written, orally or a pymt restarts SOL
Massachusetts	6 Yrs	Judgment 20 years, probate claims 1 yr from date of death. Pymt w/o acknowledgment doesn't restart the SOL
Michigan	6 Yrs	Jdgmt can renew 10 yrs. Pymt w/o acknowledgment doesn't restart the SOL
Minnesota	6 Yrs	Pymt or written acknowledgement restarts the SOL
Mississippi	3 Yrs	Jdgmt can renew 7 yrs. Pymt w/o acknowledgment doesn't restart the SOL
Missouri	5 Yrs	Jdgmt can renew 10 yrs. Pymt w/o acknowledgment doesn't restart the SOL
Montana	8 Yrs	Written acknowledgment or pymt restarts SOL
Nebraska	4 Yrs	Pymt, partial pymt, or written acknowledgment restarts SOL
Nevada	4 Yrs	Pymt w/o acknowledgment of alleged debt doesn't restart SOL
New Hampshire	3 Yrs	Pymt restarts the SOL
New Jersey	6 Yrs	Jdgmt can renew at 20 yrs - that's insane!
New Mexico	4 Yrs	Written acknowledgment or pymt restarts the SOL
New York	6 Yrs	Pymt w/o acknowledgment doesn't restart the SOL
North Carolina	3 Yrs	SOL runs from date of each individual charge
North Dakota	6 Yrs	Written acknowledgment, promise to pay, or payment restarts the SOL
Ohio	6 Yrs	Jdgmt can renew at 5 yrs
Oklahoma	5 Yrs	Jdgmt 5 yrs
Oregon	6 Yrs	Jdgmt 10 yrs
Pennsylvania	4 Yrs	Written acknowledgment, promise to pay or pymt restarts the SOL
Puerto Rico	3 Yrs	Jdgmt 15 yrs
Rhode Island	10 Yrs	Jdgmt 20 yrs.  Just slap me silly if I ever go nuts and move there!
South Carolina	3 Yrs	Written acknowledgment or partial pymt restarts the SOL
South Dakota	6 Yrs	Jdgmt 20 yrs.
Tennessee	6 Yrs	Jdgmt 10 yrs
Texas	4 Yrs	Pymt w/o acknowledgment doesn't restart the SOL
Utah	4 Yrs	Jdgmt 8 yrs. Written acknowledgment restarts SOL
Vermont	6 Yrs	Jdgmt 8 yrs
Virgin Islands	3 Yrs	Jdgmt 20 yrs
Virginia	3 Yrs	Jdgmt can renew at 10 yrs. Pymt w/o acknowledgment doesn't restart the SOL
Washington	6 Yrs	Jdgmt can renew at 10 yrs
West Virginia	5 Yrs	Acknowledging debt, promise to pay, any pymt restarts SOL. Be careful, it may apply to verbal/oral acknowledgment.
Wisconsin	6 Yrs	Pymt restarts the SOL
Wyoming	10 Yrs	Jdgmt 21 yrs. Again, just slap me silly if I ever go nuts and move there!

This information is believed to be correct as of the date of this post, but state laws and statutes can change.  You should also check your state statutes to verify that this information is correct, just to be on the safe side. Even though some states show that making a payment without an acknowledgement does not restart the SOL, to be on the safe side, Don't Make A Payment! Don't verbally or in writing admit that its your debt. Don't reaffirm, especially if you are near, at, or past the SOL. Doing any of these things will make the negative information stay on your credit longer. You're trying to improve your credit, not make it worse, right?

Again, just because you have hit the SOL for an alleged debt, it doesn't mean the lowlife, scumbag, junk debt buyers can't keep hounding you and keep trying to collect. If you are outside of the SOL, you will need to send them that C&D letter to make them go away.  I have a sample of one of the C&D letters I use on the post from April 30th, 2013 titled How To Stop Collectors and Creditors From Calling You. (It will open in a new window if you click this link).  

If you don't mind them calling you multiple times a day or using auto dialers, or any other violation of the FDCPA, FCRA, or TCPA (Telephone Consumer Protection Act), you can keep a notebook or log book and start documenting, then hit them with a "Notice of Demand" for their violations, notifying them if they don't remove the negative entries from your credit reports, you will be taking them to court.  There is a procedure for this, but I do have some friends that successfully have made some of them pay them as well as deleting the alleged accounts.

Well, hopefully this information will help you in your fight for better credit reports and good riddance of those pesky collectors.  If you need help with your credit repair, feel free to call or email me. I do respond and answer my phone.  If its a job you don't want to take on by yourself, again, just email or call me. My contact info is Waaaay up there at the top on the right (I know, this is a looooong post!). I would love to help you get the credit report that rightfully belongs to you!

How To Write Follow Up Letters When Collectors Claim To Validate

Today I'm going to explain how you are to follow up and send a second letter to a collector (could be an original creditor) who responded and sent what they claim to be validation. In all reality, if you ask the questions and request the production of documents I ask for, you will know that they didn't validate. I'm going to give you examples of the junk they send claiming validation. Well, usually, they claim to have "verified", but, that's not what you asked for now, was it?  You demanded validation.

Validation is "PROOF" from creditors and collectors, and Verification is used with credit bureaus. Not the same thing.  According to Black's Law Dictionary, Sixth Ed., 1990, Verification is:

"Confirmation of correctness, truth, or authenticity, by affidavit, oath, or deposition. Affidavit of truth of matter stated and object of verification is to assure good faith in averments or statements of party."

What this is saying is that whoever claims to verify is willing to testify in a court of law that information they furnished is 100% accurate, truthful, and they have 1st hand knowledge of all that has transpired for that alleged debt or alleged account.  How can they be sure what they think they are right about is right unless they personally know it?  Who on earth actually knows the truth about your accounts or your debts other than you?  You are the ONLY one who has 1st hand knowledge.

Here is a typical response from both original creditors and collectors that send a letter and nothing else:  "We've investigated this account and found that we are reporting accurately."   Does that look like validation to you?  That's hearsay!  Where is the proof?  That's what your response letter will say to them.  

Dear Dummy Collector,

Thanks for taking the time to waste paper and postage on your response to my demand for validation.  How about if I send you a bill and just say, "yep, I got it right, you owe me." Do you think that would stand up in a court of law?  I highly doubt it. I asked you for proof, not hearsay, not more of your lies.  Send the proof I requested or go pound sand.

Okay, so I don't always say it just like that but seriously, claiming something is accurate is lazy and weak. Its not validation.

Here's another response you might see.  They send you a letter back claiming verification or validation and send you an old bill, probably the last month of an account that was getting ready to be charged off.  The bill might even say on it "Noncollectable Account." That is NOT validation.  Its an old bill that has  your name on it, possibly your address on it, but hmm, does it have a signature on it?  Is it a contract?  Its just a piece of paper that makes a claim but has no teeth in it.  I love getting these because they do several things usually.  They prove that whoever is trying to collect is a 3rd party collector. They prove that they don't have much in their file to come close to validation. And my favorite, as long as you are not in a state with an idiotic statute of limitations like 10 years or so, many times you will see that it is an old bill that is Time Barred!  Got to love it!

Dear Dummy Collector,

Thanks for digging into your archives to come up with a useless paper claiming to have provided proof that I owe you something.  You're not even close.  I can create one of these too with your company name as the alleged debtor on it pretty easily as well.  However, sending me some paper with what appears to be my name is not validation, nor is it proof.  Do you know how many people out there have a name similar to mine? There's no signature, its not a contract, one of the things I told you to provide, and lookie there...that paper you sent is outside my state's statute of limitations.  Now, if this is all you have, then buh-bye! By the way, since you haven't validated and you only have stuff that appears to be time barred, you had better get that crap off my credit report before I sue you in Federal court for FDCPA and FCRA violations.   

Now, a response that really looks like they validated.  They sent a Contract with Your Signature on it!  Is that validation? Nope!  Not full validation.  One of the things I request in my demands for validation is a full accounting.  I want to see every charge, every payment, interest accrued, late charges, legitimate fees, and it must include the dates every charge, change, or event occurred.  Case law for that is (Spears v. Brennan). That's not where I stop though. You'll see in my sample response below how to go after them.

Dear Dummy Original Creditor,

Thanks for sending me what looks to be a contract. It appears that you are trying to validate but you have yet to fully and lawfully do so.  Remember I also told you that I needed a full accounting - Spears v. Brennan style?  Where is that? You must have forgot to include that.  Oh, this contract you sent, I suppose it says I'll pay back what I spend, but are you saying I spent credit? Is that what you allegedly lent me?  I see you are a bank.  You do know that its against the law for banks to lend credit don't you?  If you say that you (or the original creditor) lent credit, then there is no valid contract, in fact, it means that any alleged contract we supposedly had is actually a VOID contract, completely unenforceable since it was created illegally.  

Now, if you say that you actually lent me money, well that's a different story now isn't it?  If you lent me money, then please provide the source of funds you allegedly lent me.  Because you know, being a bank and all, it is unlawful for banks to lend money from their own assets, and its unlawful for them to lend their depositors' money or assets.  So which was it?  Should I answer for you?  

I found out what you did, and you know what?  What I found out proves that you violated Regulation Z - you know, the Truth in Lending Act! Shame on you for not being truthful.  You created money out of thin air.  Well, maybe not thin air, but sort of.  Its a con game. You used my signature on a promissory note (the alleged contract) and illegally converted it into a security instrument and sold it. That alleged note did not belong to you and I did not give you the right to sell it.  You also insured it.  You have illegally received monies for something you sold that belonged to me and did not give me the money for it. 

You need to prove what I'm saying is wrong or you need to delete this from my credit reports immediately and destroy all evidence of this fraudulent alleged debt/account.  You don't have a valid contract with me - you can't even prove the 4 basic elements that create a valid contract -not with a violation of Reg Z and not when you allegedly lent money or credit unlawfully.  I don't owe any alleged debt when you committed fraud. You rendered everything void from its alleged creation. 

There is another type of alleged debt that is very common that you will want to get off your credit reports.  It is the medical collection. This post is very long already so I'm going to do another post for that one.  They have additional laws to abide by and I will show you how to use those laws to stop their collection efforts and delete their information from your credit reports.

I hope I've helped you look at their responses better.  Don't let them intimidate you and don't let them fool you into thinking that because they say they've validated or verified or that their records are correct, that it is so.  They are trained to get money from you.  Its all about the money.  Its not about being responsible. Its not about some moral need to fulfill an obligation. Its about MONEY! Your money, and they want every little bit they can squeeze from you regardless of fraud, regardless of the fact that they don't have valid contracts with you or in the case of 3rd party collections, no contract at all.

Keep fighting, keep learning, keep beating them!  If you need help fighting back, I'd love to help you.  Just use the contact information up at the top on the right side.  My email address and my phone number are there.  Use either one, use both.  I answer the phone and I respond to emails.  I'm here for you and I look forward to helping you successfully improve your credit! 

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