Fighting Collections - They Are All Fraudulent!

I'm going to warn you right from the start that this is going to be a fairly long post. But I believe it will be an easy read and you will learn some very important information. Some of it may seem unbelievable but I assure you that it is true. Look, I've been doing this for over 31 years now. I can prove what I'm saying and I have proven it in court for quite a few of my lawsuit clients.  So grab your munchies and something to drink and let's start class!

It amazes me that people pay collection companies when they really don't owe the debt. Maybe they feel they have a moral obligation or they are stressed out and think paying them is the only way to make them go away. Maybe they've been convinced that they owe it and no one has taught them the truth about collections. Maybe it's a combination of the above, or all of the above, or some other reason that makes sense to them. Almost no reason makes sense to me.

Talking about collections with me makes me just go off, spewing out one fact after another and sometimes I get so riled up I get potty mouth. Yep, I do blow it occasionally when it comes to collections. Their fraudulent behavior and bullying, harassment, lies and stubbornness sometimes sets me off.  I'm going to teach you about collections today and I promise I will try my hardest to keep my words clean so as to not offend anyone or put bad language in front of youngsters that may read this.

Let's start from the beginning and we'll assume the original account is a credit card account, (but this scenario applies to most types of collection accounts including medical, utilities, insurance, cable/telecommunication accounts as well).

When you are approved for a credit card account, you are given plastic and a credit limit. When you spend using that card, the bank/card issuer convinces you that they lent you money/credit limit for you to spend. But that's not the truth. Banks are not allowed to lend money from their assets nor their depositors' assets.  It's also completely illegal to lend credit.  So now that you know that banks can't lend money or credit, what are they lending you?  The answer is NOTHING! 

What actually happens is that credit card agreement with your signature becomes a negotiable instrument. Your signature gives it energy and value. Title 12 instructs banks to treat negotiable instruments as cash. In accounting, a bank treats it as "cash equivalent" and that means that YOU FUNDED THE ACCOUNT!  The instrument has your signature on it. You own it. But they NEVER disclose that to you. You are actually making a loan to the bank but they trick you and convince you that they lent you something, totally ignoring that you were the one lending something.

Let's skip over to contract law for a moment. In order for a contract to be valid, there are 4 main elements, in addition to being bilateral - meaning 2 signatures, 1 from each party. The 4 essential elements are Offer, Acceptance (you have these two in your contracts), FULL DISCLOSURE, and EQUAL RISK. Your credit card account contract is missing the last 2 essential elements for a valid contract.

To have full disclosure, they would need to inform and advise and disclose to you that YOU are the one who is funding the account. They would have to disclose to you that the account is going to be insured in case of asset loss for the bank's favor and that you will be paying the insurance premium for that asset loss insurance (known as "credit default swap"), and get your written consent to the amount of the premium. They would need to disclose that they will most likely only service the account and transfer "ownership" to a special purpose vehicle such as an asset backed trust. They would need to disclose that this is securitization and that by separating the payment stream from the note, the contract is void. 

To have equal risk, both parties must have something to lose. What do the banks have to lose? They don't lend anything. They are insured against loss, they sell it and transfer it, they get tax credits. WHAT DO THEY HAVE TO LOSE? The only thing I can think of is insane amounts of illegal profits that they really aren't entitled to. But really that doesn't fit either because they insure everything! They can't lose!  Anyhow, I hope I've explained why the banks don't really have a valid contract.

Now, moving on to the creation of collection accounts and the fraudulent nature of them. 

You have your credit card account and you're using it and paying it regularly and consistently and then something happens that causes you to be late. You get hit with fees. You catch it up and use and pay and use and pay but you get to a point where you just can't keep up with the payments and you default on your agreement. The account gets further and further behind. So you try to work something out with them but still you can't keep up.

Let's say you asked me to try to talk to them about the account. So I call them up and say that I want to discuss account number  1234XXXX, and see what can be done to save the account and get back on track.  They ask me if I am Mary Doe and I tell them, no, I'm Shannon, Mary's friend, or sister, or whatever. They will then tell me that they cannot discuss the account with me or anyone except Mary unless she has given specific authorization or a Power of Attorney to speak with them on her behalf.  This is important to understand. They CANNOT share any information about Mary's account with me or ANY PERSON (corporations are also defined as a "person") without a request, agreement, authorization, or Power of Attorney specifically naming that person as authorized to communicate and receive her account information. THIS IS IMPORTANT!

Well Mary can't catch up the account and at 180 days, the bank needs to remove it from their books and they charge it off.  But wait! Remember that they insured that account in case of loss due to default or other credit/asset loss?  They never tell you this but at approximately 90 days, they are allowed to file an insurance claim for that asset loss. The insurance company then issues a check for the amount of loss they claim they will or have incurred. The account is now PAID OFF IN FULL.  Remember who paid the insurance premium?  That's right, it was you - whether you knew it or not you were charged the premium and you paid it. Or maybe I should say your negotiable instrument paid it. 

That insurance payoff happened at approximately 90 days of default. Remember I told you that the banks charge off the account at 180 days? That charged off amount is the balance they report to the credit bureaus, or an amount near the amount of the charged off amount. IT'S A HUGE LIE!  The account was paid off by insurance that YOU paid for. The balance is $0! They charged off NOTHING! Scam! Fraud! Lies! Schemers!  Your credit reports should ALWAYS show the charged off account has a $0 balance. Oh heck no! It shouldn't even be a charge off. You paid off that account in full at approximately 90 days of default. And that's not even taking into consideration that you funded the stinking account in the first place so you never really were in default and didn't even need insurance to pay it off. I swear! Now you know why I get so worked up. But oh, it doesn't end there.

When they do their charge off of the account, next they recoup some more money by filing a Profit and Loss on their taxes. This allows them to take a deduction or receive a credit for that asset loss.  Funny how they conveniently forget that they never lent a dime, never lost a dime, actually made money (from your payments and insurance payouts), and still benefit from the P&L. You'll see that P&L on your credit reports quite often under "Account Status." 

Now that they've squeezed out as much money for that account as possible for the time being, they use the credit reports to try to extort that fake balance out of you. Some people fall for it and you will see a Paid Charge Off on the credit reports. Many times people pay them because of the threat of being sued. Oh the greed of the banks!  

Banks don't always hold onto charged off accounts. Sometimes they crunch the numbers and figure that it's more beneficial to sell off the charged off accounts. This is where the 3rd party collection company enters the picture. They usually bundle up a lot of charged off accounts and sell them as debt portfolios.  Then "debt buyers" purchase them. I really hate the title of "Debt Buyers." They don't buy debt, they buy YOUR INFORMATION.

Now please recall the little scenario of me trying to talk to the bank on Mary's behalf. Do you remember why they wouldn't talk to me or anyone else about her account?  They, by law, cannot share any information with any person without Mary's consent. They can't share info or communicate or negotiate without her authorization or a Power of Attorney, or an agreement such as a company stepping in and paying off the account  for which she would have contracted to now pay them. An example of this would be similar or the same as a refinance.

When banks sell off their portfolios of charged off accounts to a 3rd party collection company or misnamed "debt buyer," they are selling the account information only, because remember, the account has not only been paid off by insurance, but also charged off and received tax credits. But, they NEVER contact the account holders and get their consent to share that information  with any other party. They do it behind your back! They do it without your consent and without your knowledge.

I declare that this is collusion between banks and collection companies to perpetrate identity theft on account holders.  Collection companies get these accounts, create new accounts that you know nothing about then send you a bill claiming you owe them. Wait!  Where's the contract? Contract law requires a valid bilateral agreement between you and another party. It requires offer and acceptance. When dealing with a collection company, there is No upfront offer and acceptance. There is no full disclosure - they ALL know that the true account balance is $0 and I've confirmed that with a broker for debt portfolios. They KNOW! Lastly, it's obvious that there is NO EQUAL  RISK! It is impossible to have a valid contract with these debt collectors. It is also highly likely that collection accounts are insured as well. I'd guess that I'm about 95% sure of it.

WHAT A HUGE SCAM ON CONSUMERS! GRRRR!  I know some of you are feeling what I feel when discussing this huge fraud on consumers. It's an outrage!  It's intentional and willful and corrupt.

I'm not advocating not paying your bills because it all starts off with a failure to disclose, no real lending, no truly valid contract, etc. I believe that in this society, you have to play the credit game in order to achieve the American dream of home ownership and purchasing cars, or personal loans, renting a place to live or renting a car, turning on utilities, getting insurance, getting a cell phone, or whatever. You need good credit to obtain additional credit or financing for major purchases. I'm just  wanting you to be aware and awake. I just want you to understand about collections and learn to fight back. I don't ever advise anyone to pay a collection account though. It's all a sham. 

Demand validation of these collectors. Demand they produce a valid contract. Demand they produce a signed authorization. They shouldn't be on your credit report for any reason but since they are, they certainly should not be there without an authorization to collect information and make communications about you and an alleged account. They can NEVER truly validate. There is no valid contract and there is no POA or signed authorization. They've never lent anything to you. They are not named on original contracts with original creditors so they don't even qualify to subrogate/substitute themselves on to a contract. They have no interest to protect. They haven't been aggrieved and are not entitled to seek redress. 

I hope you've learned a lot from this post. I hope it gets you fired up to fight back. I hope the information helps you to see success against these 3rd party collectors to get them off your credit reports and out of your lives! 

If you have collection accounts that you need off your credit reports and you don't want to take on the fight alone, contact me because I love my work. I love fighting to get these thugs off your reports and out of your lives. 

Why You Should Demand Validation From Debt Collectors

The majority of questions and requests for assistance are about debt collectors and 3rd party collections. These companies want your money but they did nothing to earn it or deserve it.  They are not owed anything and you really need to fight back to avoid paying them what they are not owed and to increase your chances of not being sued by them.

Many credit repair companies and many consumers as well dispute these items directly with the credit bureaus to get them removed. Sometimes you can have pretty good results for your credit reports by just disputing with the credit reporting agencies (CRA's) but most of the time, and especially if you are using an online tool to dispute, your results are not going to be great and sometimes not permanent.

But here is what I view as the problem with just disputing with CRA's. You're only disputing the accuracy for the most part.  Many people tell me they just dispute them as "No Contract" and most of the time I hear that the results come back as verified.  Even if the item is removed, it only means that the company just didn't respond in time or preferred to just let it be removed from the credit reports. Because you really don't demand validation through the CRA's, you haven't blocked their collection efforts.

Just because something isn't furnished to your credit reports doesn't mean they can't attempt to collect from you.  In order to block their collection efforts, the FDCPA says you must demand validation in writing. Once you have demanded validation, they must cease all collection activity until they validate. A demand for validation is the tool or weapon you need to use to get them to back off.

Now, many times these thugs make claims that they have checked their records, or that they have verified or that they have fulfilled validation requirements and they just continue on with their collection activity.  However, a well constructed validation demand letter will protect you in court if it lands there. When I say well constructed, I'm not talking about the nonsense you find online.

Eeesh!  I hate those ones where people say "This is not a refusal to pay..." and then goes on with a bunch of regurgitated stuff that makes up a validation form letter.  Do you think I would ever tell a company that isn't owed a dime and I know it that I'm not refusing to pay?  Oh, heck no!  My letter tells them I REFUSE TO PAY YOUR BS ACCUSATION unless you can prove me wrong!  Then I tell them the documents they need to produce to prove me wrong.

If you don't tell them what they need to produce, they can just skirt by and make whatever claims they want. Many times they will come back with a lame response such as "...there is no basis in law to send you the documents you're requesting...", I'm paraphrasing.  Well, I don't see that often, though I do occasionally.  But what I put in my validation demand letters is a legal citation for each item I'm requesting from them. So when I respond to that nonsense, I call them out and point them to review each case law cited, each federal act cited, each law, state or federal cited, and so on.

A competent and forceful validation letter is critical, folks.  This is power if they sue you or you decide to sue them. I've stated in other posts that validation is the Proof they need to come forward with and verification is the Sworn Testimony that MUST accompany it. They must have both. Without 1 or the other or any of what is demanded, they have hearsay but they don't have validation. Hearsay is inadmissible in a court of law and the courts have said it is incompetent.

So, you either need to learn what to demand and the laws, case law, or whatever appropriate legal ammunition that relates to each item requested to back up your demand, or hire someone who knows how to craft an effective validation letter.  If you don't demand validation, they can continue coming after you. They can continue to furnish on your credit reports. They can initiate a lawsuit against you. 

Demanding validation properly and always responding to their claims and rejecting their false claims is key. One more important thing about validation.  A demand for validation is rarely done with 1 letter. What I mean by that is, it is rare to send one letter and then they respond with a  letter telling you they're closing their file and removing the lie from your reports. These collection companies are getting very bold in their lawlessness, very stubborn, and they require a fight.

You must always respond. If they claim they've already addressed it and further similar communication will be trashed (well not exactly but that's what they sort of mean), you still need to respond.  YOU must be the last one to respond to anything other than "We're closing the file and removing our BS from your credit reports."  

You have a right to demand full validation. Know your rights. Exercise your rights. Fight back and don't back down. Basic bureau disputes don't completely protect you. You need to dispute with the CRA's but you Need to Demand Validation.  If you want someone who knows this game, knows the laws to use to back up the demands, will fight for you, contact me.  It's what I'm good at.  It's what I'm passionate about. I want to see you win this fight! 

You can reach me at futurefico@gmail.com or 951-801-2828

I'd love to fight for and with you. 

If you have found this blog helpful to you, please consider donating as a sign of your appreciation for information I have freely given to you.  The "Donate" button is on the right side bar.  Thank you for your generosity.

Repair Your Credit Before Buying Or Selling A Home

We're coming up on Summer and that is usually a hot time for buying or selling a home.  You need to consider the shape of your credit before you take the leap to either buy or sell real estate. It might seem like it doesn't matter how your credit is when you are selling your home but believe me, you are a prime target for the collection vultures. They're definitely preying on potential buyers but sellers usually have equity and they want to get hold of some of it as well.

For sellers, you're not going to be able to hide the public records like tax liens and judgments. The title company will almost always force you to pay those off before they will allow you to close escrow.  You may also get hit with claims from creditors and collectors that get wind of your transaction.  It's not hard for them to find out that you are selling your home so you really need to take care of your credit issues before you open escrow, and preferably before you even list your home for sale.  

Many times sellers are also going to be buyers. Again, you will want your credit in the best shape possible.  Even if your new lender doesn't require you to pay off certain alleged debts prior to funding, getting these things either paid or off your credit reports is most likely going to raise your credit scores, which will give you a better loan rate and save you thousands - even hundreds of thousands of dollars on your home loan and possibly other credit down the line. 

Some lenders will approve you for a loan with a mid FICO score of only 580. That is typically an FHA loan. However, debt to credit and debt to income ratios play a part in qualifying for a loan.  The higher your score, the better your interest rate. The less debt, and yes that includes 3rd party collector debt, the better your ratios are going to be. Many times your lender will tell you to pay off  the bad debts showing on your credit reports.  That's not necessarily the best advice, many times it is bad advice, but then again, they don't know credit repair the way a professional credit repair expert knows it.

I HATE, HATE, HATE anyone having to pay a 3rd party collector anything!  If you've read even just a few of my blog posts, you'll know that and you'll know that I stand firm in my claim that you don't owe a collection company a dime!  This is one of the main reasons that if you are contemplating buying or selling a home in the near future and your credit is not perfectly clear of these types of accounts, you need credit repair help soon.  You may also be in a position to need to rebuild your credit as well. This is where getting together with a professional credit repair consultant can really assist you in getting ready to buy a home.

Two other main items to address before buying a home are tax liens and judgments.  These are public record items but many times lenders don't pull public records reports on borrowers. So, if they are showing on your credit reports, you want to get them off. Otherwise, your lender might make paying them off a condition of  funding your loan.  Again, removing these types of items are where hiring an expert to assist you really helps you save many thousands of dollars.

I don't worry too much about removing bankruptcies from credit reports. It's not like you can hide the fact that you've had one (or more) in the last few years.  You have to disclose that on the loan application.  If you don't disclose it, you run the risk of being accused and possibly prosecuted for bank fraud. Don't go there.  

Bankruptcies are VERY difficult to remove from credit reports. You have to disclose the fact that you've had one when you apply for a home loan, so I just wouldn't worry too much about removing them.  Yes, attempt to remove them, but don't feel defeated if it doesn't come off.  At least it's not like a collection, tax lien, judgment or charge off showing a balance that might need to get paid in order to close escrow if it's showing on your credit reports.

Interest rates on home loans are still pretty decent but they're not going down; they're going to be going up. Now is the time to get to work on your credit if you're thinking of buying or selling a home in the near future. If you're thinking about buying in less than a year, then its probably best to hire someone to assist you. 

If you're needing to move and you're going to rent, if your credit has collections and public records, you are in the same position as a potential home buyer.  Landlords want to rent to people that have good credit. If they see you have tax liens,judgments, collections, charge offs with a balance higher than $0, they're going to choose to rent to someone with better credit  than you.  Your score will also reflect a lower number as well and that is a turn off to landlords.

 Credit repair is what I've done professionally for over 30 years.  My business partner has done credit repair for over 20 years.  We've taught other credit repair companies how to do it successfully. We are true experts. We want to help you purchase your home.  We want to help you keep the equity your home has earned.  We want to help you be able to rent your next home.  We want to help you. 

If you're ready to get your credit reports looking much prettier and your credit scores higher, we'd love the opportunity to help you reach your goals.  Email me today. Let us get you into your next home!  My email address is futurefico@gmail.com if you would like to contact me directly. You can also go to our website and fill out the form to get started with a free consultation. Just go to InsightCreditGroup.com so we can fight for you.

Getting Collection Accounts Off Your Credit Reports

Getting rid of collections from your credit reports is one of the main goals of credit repair.  They are very damaging to both your perceived credit worthiness and your credit score. They used to be one of the easier tasks to complete even if you really didn't know too much about fixing your credit.  But that is not the case anymore.  Sometimes they are as stubborn to remove as charge offs and they take a lot more work than in years past.

Collections, based on who the 3rd party company is, who the original creditor is, what type of alleged debt it is,and other factors can drop your credit scores overnight to a score that will prevent you from qualifying for a home loan, car loan, credit cards, even from renting, and even other important needs or wants, such as employment, promotions, and a whole slew of other things that can affect your life. My partner and I have seen our clients' scores drop up to over 100 points with a new collection but typically in the range of 40 - 80 points. 

You have to attack collection accounts vigorously and consistently in order to remove them. You have to be careful the way you say things when you are disputing to avoid verifying the alleged debt for them. This is true when disputing with credit bureaus and also with the collection company.   You must choose your words wisely. You must NEVER admit you owe a collection company anything and never admit you owe the original creditor that is related to that collection account.

For the best chance at successfully getting rid of collections, you need to dispute with the credit bureaus and the collection companies. If you want to get them deleted from your reports you need to have bureau disputes that attack in multiple ways to avoid getting a "frivolous" response letter.  You will also need to demand validation directly from the collection company. You may need to do several "rounds" of letters to both of these entities before you see the results you're looking for.

Demanding validation is important for several reasons.  Once you demand validation, the FDCPA requires the collection company to cease all collection activity until they validate.  However, there is NO LAW, not even in the FDCPA that requires a collection company to validate.  What this means is  that if a collection company does not validate, they can no longer furnish or verify information on your credit reports.  They are required to delete the information.  They are no longer allowed to send you a bill.  That's obvious collection  activity.  They are not allowed to initiate a lawsuit against you either if they haven't validated.  The bad news is that many of these collection companies don't give a rat's whiskers (thought I was gonna say something else, huh?) about the law and they ignore it, violate it, and continue their illegal collection activity.

Validation can eliminate the alleged debt if the collection company obeys the law. This happens quite often when you write effective letters.   But even with effective letters, many companies give up their pursuit of you but try to recoup some money by selling the account to another collection company.  The more this happens, the easier it usually gets to remove each new claim for that old account. However, sometimes you slam them so hard and so effectively that you eliminate that alleged debt and never have to see anything related to it again.  That is the ultimate success you are looking for.

Successful disputing also requires you to consistently respond to their replies to your disputes. You can't drop the ball.  You MUST respond and you must respond on point. In other words, you have to attack what they say, what documentation they provide, what they don't provide, and properly rebut any claims they make that they have verified or validated the account.  A good arsenal of laws, case laws and other legal citations to back up your demands and your rebuttals helps to knock them down and kick them out of your life and off your credit reports.  I think this is probably where I see most people get hung up, stumped and start to give up.

Credit repair is not as easy as a lot of people think! Sometimes it feels like a full time job when you are doing it on your own. My partner and I have been doing this for over 50 years combined. We are the best of the best at what we do. We have other credit repair companies calling and asking for our assistance because they are frustrated with their clients' progress sometimes. And you know what? It's sometimes hard for us too so we know that you can get frustrated, worn down and feel like giving up.  Fortunately, we love fighting, love seeing great results for our clients, are passionate about what we do, and heck, its our job so we don't give up.  

You need to hang in there, keep fighting, keep responding, keep demanding proof, documentation, etc. Your credit depends on it. Your ability to rebuild your credit, improve your scores, qualify for credit, loans, get employed, etc. depend on it. 

If you get too worn out, burned out, frustrated or tired, please reach out to me. This is what I do.  If you don't even want to attempt it on your own for whatever reason be it lack of  time, fear, or you just want to let a professional assist you, please contact me. I will audit your reports and my partner will give you a consultation. We will answer your questions and give you a realistic projection of what you can expect our services to achieve for you. 

You can contact me by email at futurefico@gmail.com or go to our company website at InsightCreditGroup.com and sign up for a consultation.  I look forward to helping you achieve the credit you desire!

If you have found this blog helpful to you, please consider donating as a sign of your appreciation for information I have freely given to you.  The "Donate" button is on the right side bar.  Thank you for your generosity.

Debt Settlement And Negotiation Is Bad For Your Credit!

I'm not a big TV watcher but sometimes when I do, I see ads for debt settlement and debt negotiation services.  They sound so nice and the actors pretend that their life after signing up is just so wonderful, like it solved all of their problems. Its a crock!  If they were honest about it, they would have a disclaimer that you could hear at a normal speed of talking where they told you who really benefits with debt settlement.

If you've read much of my blog, you have most likely read that you don't owe collectors a dime and you shouldn't pay them or settle with them. I feel the same way about charged off accounts with original creditors. You don't owe them squat.  Of course, that's not what you're going to read on most websites and blogs. No, they just keep spitting out the same garbage that the bureaus and the FTC, and the creditors and collectors want you to believe. 

But, you have to think about it. Why would they tell you that a charged off account still has to be paid? Why would a collector who you've never agreed to do business with tell you that regardless if its been charged off and now they own it, that you have to pay? I know you have got to sort of have the answer in your head as you read this - its so easy!  Its because they know if they get you to pay, they are going to make butt loads of money off of you and everyone else they convince that they need to pay.  What's that saying? Follow the money!

So why is debt settlement so bad for your credit?  Let me explain a little about your credit report and scores.  When you have a charge off, it can really cost you some points. But, as time goes on, it has less and less effect on your score.  In fact, at 2 years, it really isn't affecting your score at all. At least its not if they are reporting it properly. What I mean by that is, it should show what your high credit is and your balance should be $0 and your past due should be $0.  Anything other than that is wrong and even at 2 years old, it will be affecting your credit and your score negatively.  

This is when most people see that charge off and they think if they do the fake "honorable" thing and pay it off, it will help their score. NOPE! It will hurt your score.  What you should do, is tell the original creditor that you are not happy that they are intentionally damaging your credit score by knowingly reporting erroneous information. They charged this alleged account off. Their books say $0 past due now and $0 balance. So why on earth are they reporting anything other than $0? I admit that there's a lot of incompetent people working for these folks, but it is intentional. They want to screw you over because you stopped paying and they didn't get to swindle you for the full amount they were hoping for. Its retaliation!

So, they may come back with a phony verification but offer you a sweet deal to close it out. If you do that, what will happen to your credit is a new negative report that now will take another 2 years to have no affect and another 7 years before it will "fall off" of your credit report. Oh, and your credit report will also say that you settled! Is that helping you? Nah, but they made more money off you. They also took tax credits when they charged off, so now they have just committed tax fraud.  And when they charged off, they got a secret insurance payment that paid it off, so they also just committed insurance fraud. So tell me again how you benefited?  You have a fresh negative and 7 more years of negative crap on your credit and paid for something that had you continued to fight about, you never would have paid and you probably would have gotten it off your credit.

Let's talk about 3rd party debt collectors. They notify you that they are now collecting on behalf of an old credit card or medical debt that you failed to pay. But oh, lucky you. They're going to offer you an awesome deal where they're going to knock off half of the balance you owe them. Stop! You don't owe them. When did you contract with them?  Were they mentioned on the contract with the original creditor? NO, NO, NO they weren't! 

What you should do is demand validation from them. I think that probably 90-95% of the time, when they bought the portfolio of bad debt from the original creditor or some other junk debt buyer, they were missing a lot of the supporting documentation. I say this because 97% of collection lawsuits end up with the collector winning a default judgment. The defendant (think, overwhelmed or not notified consumer) doesn't fight it or respond. So, if they can count on that many default judgments, why would they care if they got full documentation to support the bad debts they buy?

When you demand validation, more than 1/3 of them will hit the road. They may sell it to the next junk debt buyer to try to recoup some of the money they spend, but each time they resell it, you have a higher success rate of getting rid of them.  But let's get back to debt settlement. Why would you settle with someone you don't owe, even at 1/2 the amount, when they bought it for probably no more than 20 cents on the dollar? That means they are also making money off of you when they never lent you a dime. And they probably can't prove you owe them anything.

But here's the bad part. They will now report that you have a paid collection.  A collection is worse than a charge off. It is bad. Always bad. And paying them is more fresh bad. No collector should ever be on any one's credit report, but if you pay them, you will have an even harder time getting it off because they have no incentive to delete and they will claim because you paid them, you contracted with them.

Now debt negotiation is a little different. This is where you hire a company to negotiate a settlement for you.  Why is this bad? Well, for all of the above reasons, but also, now you are paying another company money. They won't make payments on your behalf right away. No, they hold on to the money.  Oh wait, that's not correct. They will take a portion of your payment and keep it as part of their fee, and then hold on to the rest until you build up enough to make a settlement offer to 1 or a few creditors and or collectors. So now, you may have just been struggling to pay the credit card bills, but were never late, and this company stopped paying them, when you thought they were going to be managing it for you. Oh boy are you getting screwed!

Debt negotiation firms, (if they don't take your money and run), they hold on to your money so long without making payments that you will end up with charge offs, having original creditor debts now go to collectors, have your car repoed, even get you into a situation where you get sued! Wow, they are really helping consumers, aren't they?

Now there's also the consumer counseling companies. They do debt settlement also but its a little different. What they do is negotiate to lower or freeze the interest rates. But, the balance of the debt stays the same, plus you have a monthly fee for them negotiating with the credit card companies. You don't get any cut in the balance at all.  Its kind of like a Ch. 13 bankruptcy and they will many times notate on your credit report that its included in a counseling plan.  The only thing I can commend these types of settlement companies on is the fact that they actually will be making the payment to the creditors every month. That's because they don't have to save up a large amount to negotiate a balance settlement. So as long as you make that payment every month to them (which of course includes their service fee), they'll pay the creditors.

Okay, so who benefits? Well, many times these companies claim to be non-profit. That doesn't mean anything for you. It means they are exempt from taxation, but it doesn't mean it costs you less. And who donates to these companies, gives them grants, invests in them, keeps them up and running?  Many times its the credit card companies! I can tell you for sure the credit card companies are behind most of the credit counseling companies. Its another nice tax credit.  Did you see that one coming?  Its a stinking scam! So, now the negotiation company benefits, the original creditor benefits, the collector benefits, but how on earth do you benefit?

Every month they don't pay because they're building up the payoff fund, your credit report gets more late notations and your score drops, and you get charge offs, and you get new collection activity being reported on your credit. You aren't benefiting at all! You are getting spanked!

What annoys me also is, they have the nerve to claim they are helping you repair or restore your credit. Its such BS! They are no better than dirty 3rd party debt collectors. They are lying thieves!  None of them are out to help you. They are all vultures finding different ways to snipe your money from you. They don't care what kind of hardship it causes you. They don't care that it jacks up your credit. All they care about is the money. And its a lot of money. These debt settlement and debt negotiation companies make big money, whether they are for profit, not for profit, or non-profit.

If you want to fix your credit, don't think for one second that paying one of these companies is going to help you. They are not, and that's a fact! If you want to fix your credit, you're going to have to learn how to fight back. Learn to write validation letters. Learn how to read your credit report. Learn how to know if what they send back as validation or verification is accurate or actually validation or verification. You have to learn how to respond to them. If you want to be successful on your own, you will need to learn some laws and not just say the same thing that letters you find online say. You have to understand the laws. You have to know how and when  to use them, which ones to use, which case law to throw back at them, what to say to defend yourself and make them pound sand!

I try to teach you here how to stand up for yourself, how to fight to get your credit score back up and your credit reports looking pretty. But, it takes commitment. It takes time. It takes persistence and not everything always comes off.  You probably won't have as much success as someone who does it professionally, but you can see fantastic results if you keep at it and if you use a lot of what I share with you on this blog.  I don't think you'll find anyone else who has been in the business as long as I have been, willing to share as much truth and strategies and laws as I do here.  What I share has helped me be successful for almost 3 decades. I want you to be successful too!

So, I congratulate you on making the decision to fight to restore your credit and improve your credit. You can do it.  But, if you find you just don't want to do it on your own, I would love to help. Use the phone number or the email address up at the top right hand side of this page to contact me.  Let's get started on your new clean credit report so you can get those better insurance rates, you can get that job, you can qualify for that car or home purchase. Let's get you going to finally get back your life!

How To Write A Validation Letter

I get a LOT of emails asking how to write a validation letter so I'm going to try to explain it again here.  Validation letters are NOT sent to Original Creditors.  Validation letters are NOT sent to Credit Bureaus.   They are ONLY sent to 3rd Party Collectors.

When you get a letter from a collection company, the first time you receive one from that company, they should be very clear that you have a right to dispute their claim within 30 days.  This does not mean that they won't be putting it on your credit report or that they haven't already put it on your credit report.  But it does mean that they will have to immediately stop collection activity when they receive your dispute or what we call a Validation letter.

Sometimes you never get that first letter or maybe you did and you ignored it, but you have a copy of your  credit report and you see a collection account on there.  You will want to dispute this with a Validation letter as well.  Even though you may not have disputed within the first 30 days of being notified that this collection company is hot on your trail, or you never knew about it until you saw your credit report, once they get the Validation letter from you, they must stop all collection activity.

A Validation letter is demanding proof that you owe them something.  You have the right to challenge their claim and make them stop collection activity pursuant to the FDCPA (Fair Debt Collection Practices Act).  Collection activity can be phone calls where they are pressuring you to pay something, another "bill" saying to pay, and even verifying the alleged debt or updating the alleged debt on your credit report.  They must stop ALL collection activity until they prove the alleged debt is yours.  The only things they are allowed to do at this time are to 1. Prove the alleged debt is yours; 2. Mark the alleged account as "In Dispute" on your credit report; or 3. Send you a letter stating they are closing the file and removing it from your credit report - or similar language to that effect.

A Validation letter should always be sent Certified Mail and preferably with a Return Receipt.  These are some of the things that you will want to keep for your "paper trail" if you end up in court against these suckers.  So, always keep a copy of each letter sent and the certified receipt showing they got your letter. Also, keep every letter they send you. You will be able to find violations they commit and also whether or not they responded and if they sent all the information you demanded in your Validation letter.

Validation letters can be short and to the point, or long and full of laws, or anywhere in between.  The best Validation letters are the ones you write yourself. The worst to use are the ones you find all over the internet or in some book where you said everything they did, word for word.  You want to make the letter your own. Put it in your own words. If you're pissed off and feel like letting them know, well then make sure your letter gets that across to them. I believe its absolutely fine to not be nice in a letter to any collection company. They are ruthless, rude, law breaking  scum, so why would you have to be nice to them?  Write from your heart while you make sure you demand they try to prove their claims.  If that's not you, if you just would  rather be nice or plain matter of fact, that's perfectly okay too.

The letter to them will start off with a Dear Sirs, or To whom it may concern, or some sort of generic salutation. Then you tell them you either received their letter claiming you owe them something or you have a copy of your credit report and saw that they are furnishing information on it that they think you owe them something.  Then you tell them you don't believe you owe them anything and you are disputing their claim and you demand that they stop all collection activity pursuant to the FDCPA.  You don't have to put that its pursuant to anything if you don't want, but whether or not you say that, it is pursuant to the FDCPA and they know it.

Make sure you reference the alleged account number that they assigned to the alleged debt. Now you can tell them what you want them to provide to you.  You definitely want a copy of the alleged contract that shows you agreed to do business with them.  You want a copy of the contract between you and the alleged original creditor. You want a full accounting - meaning, how did they determine how much they claim you owe them.  They usually have added extra charges for interest and collection fees so they need to explain exactly how they got to the amount they are telling you to pay them.

They also need to provide proof that they have a right to collect the alleged debt.  This means they will need to show the contract between them and the original creditor, or whoever they got the alleged account from, and the full chain of assignment. This means, if they are not the first collector claiming you owe this alleged debt, they need to show every single collection company that had it from the original creditor, through every 3rd party scum bag, to them.  Now if you are in a state that requires collection companies to be licensed and/or bonded, they need to provide copies of those items as well.

Another important item that they should be able to provide to you, is the date of the last payment and proof that the alleged account is not outside the Statute of Limitations. If the alleged original account is Time-barred, this is a fantastic way to get rid of them fast.  Some companies don't care and will continue to try to collect and may even sue you on Time-barred debts.  As long as you make no payment to them, make no payment arrangement with them and never admit you owe the alleged debt, it will stay time-barred.  You have to be very, very careful here. In some states, just acknowledging that you ever owed the alleged debt is enough to start the Statute of Limitations clock all over again, so DON'T DO IT! Don't admit Anything - Ever! Don't make a payment to these fools - Ever! Don't agree to a payment plan - Ever!

The next thing I believe you should tell them, and I think its very important to say it in writing, is that under no circumstances do you authorize or give them consent to furnish any information to your credit reports nor to take any action that would result in an inquiry on your credit report from their company. You should tell them this whether they are on your credit report or not.  In order for a company to inquire or furnish information on your credit report, you must give your authorization for them to do so.  Read my previous post, just before this one, so you understand what it takes for them to be able to have anything to do with your credit report.

Now, if they are already furnishing information to your credit report, also demand that they provide a copy of your consent and/or authorization that allows them to furnish or inquire on your credit report. Remind them that without this proof, they must remove all traces of their slander from your credit reports.

You really don't need much more than this in your validation letters. If your want to, you can use case law or the actual laws that give you the right to demand everything you have told them to provide to you, just to give your letter even more weight. You can use something you find on the internet and request the same things those letters say, but again, put it in your own words.  Don't use a form letter and don't copy word for word from those letters. They just don't have as good of an effect or result  as your own letter will have.

Okay, now you've come to the end of your letter. Here is something super important. NEVER, NEVER, NEVER sign your name to the letter.  You may type it or print it, or stamp it, but Don't Sign in YOUR Handwriting!  Also, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER give them your social security number. And nowhere in your letter at all, NEVER, NEVER, EVER admit that you owe them diddly nor that the alleged original account belongs to you.  

You don't ever want to acknowledge anything other than you received their correspondence and/or you see that they are reporting on your credit reports. They are the ones that should be sending you proof.  You have NO obligation to send them copies of ANYTHING or to disclose anything to them. No copies of old bills, no social security number, no utility bills, no driver's license, no birth date, no whatever they claim you need to send them as proof of anything.  You are not the party needing to prove something - THEY ARE! 

If they are requesting you send them something, it means that they don't have what it takes to even come close to resembling validation. The minute they start asking for you to provide any type of information is time for you to tell them you know they obviously are fraudsters and have no proof of any alleged debt and they need to go pound sand.

So, this is how you write a Validation letter. Hopefully you will craft an excellent one that successfully gets them out of your life and off your credit reports. I'd like to tell you that you will probably be a lot more successful if you can respond to their initial letter within the 30 period. But if you've missed it or never received that "Dunning" notice, don't worry. You still retain your rights, you just need to exercise them and be consistent. Don't accept their claim of validation, don't accept anything other than they are ceasing the game with you and always respond until they give up and go away.

If you have found this blog helpful to you, please consider donating as a sign of your appreciation for information I have freely given to you.  The "Donate" button is on the right side bar.  Thank you for your generosity.

How Bad Credit Affects Your Credit Score (Part 3/3)

Part 3:  The effect bad credit habits have on your credit score

In the first 2 parts we talked about 2 of the most popular credit scoring models. Now I'm going to try to expose how the different bad categories affect your credit.  When I say "categories" I'm talking about collections, charge-offs, liens, late pays, judgments, bankruptcies, and accounts that are showing "Settled".  All of these things are negatives and hurt your credit score.  What's worse, is that they cost you money in higher interest rates, higher insurance rates.  Even your ability to get a better paying job, (or a job at all, in this economy), can be affected.

When you have negative credit on your credit report, the negatives cost you the most points when they are newly reported.  As time goes on, your score will raise a bit, regardless if you paid off the negative tradelines or not.  I always tell people that a negative is bad and once bad, always bad - even if its paid. It is just a "Paid" bad and costs you points.  In fact, when you pay an old negative, it sets a new date for how long that negative can stay on your credit.  That's one of the reasons why I don't advocate paying old debt at all.  You need to get those off, not just showing paid.

Exactly how the scoring and how many points for each baddie is figured, I can't say.  I do know some general information.  They like to keep the percentages and algorithms a secret.  Its my opinion that they do this because they don't want everyone having good credit.  Bad credit is Big Money.  Think about it, when you are offered pre-approved cards in the mail, they are almost always attached to higher interest rates, annual and sometimes monthly fees, teaser rates to start off with and then the rate jumps, and almost always, the type of cards offered are for people needing to rebuild their credit.  

These companies get your information from the bureaus.  The bureaus sell your information. They have lists of people grouped and categorized for sale. Those with bankruptcies approaching 2 years, those with paid collections or charge-offs, low FICO score range lists.  This is one of the main ways bureaus make money.  Now, these companies offering the credit cards, the ones that buy the lists from the bureaus, they stand to make a ton of money because the interest rates and fees are higher than what someone with A credit will accept.  As I said before, bad credit is big money, its big business.

So how many points do these negative items cost you?  Its not the same amount for every person. One thing that affects the amount your score will drop is what the FICO score was before the negative was placed on the credit.  The higher the credit score, then the more points a negative mark will cost you. I believe because this is true, that the points it costs you is a percentage of the starting score.  Also, the amount of points you get back when you get the negative removed is generally going to be less than the amount it cost you because the longer the negative is on your report, the less it costs you.  In other words, every time your credit score is updated, you may gain a few points.  Sometimes it updates because a new negative is put on, but it can be offset by the score raising a little bit, from the length of time older baddies have been on the report.  So time and changes to the report affect the score.

Here are what some of the different "baddies" will cost you in points, and why you need to get these deleted from your report, not just paid off.  Remember, its based on what your starting score it.

New Collection:                   Avg. 50 - 150 point drop for each one
Points lost are based on your starting score and the dollar amount of the collection reported.  It is a confusing formula, but this is what I have learned through research.  Initial points lost 50-100 for the first $236 then another 35-50 points lost for each additional $354. Then, they add back some points ranging from 76-175.  On a $1200 collection with a starting score of 700, there would be a loss of approximately 112 points.
Charge Off:                          Avg. 50 - 150 point drop for each one
Points are lost based on your starting score, but don't forget, this point drop is in addition to all the drops your score has suffered from the points lost for each 30 day late pay (and 60 - 180+ late pays), and then, when they sell it to a collection agency, you get dinged again when they report!
Late Pays:                            Avg. 60 - 110 point drop for each one
Points are lost based on your starting score.  The higher your score was to start with, the more points it costs you. With each successive late payment, it should drop less and less because the score is lowering each time.  But, late pays really hit you hard and cost you a lot of points.
Bankruptcy:                        Avg. 130 - 240 point drop
Points are lost based on your starting score.  You see the effect right away, but it causes all the collections, judgments, anything included in the BK to show paid. By the end of 2 years, your credit score can really see some recovery.  I've seen some credit reports that had the whole payment history removed on accounts that were included in the BK.  Removing all those late pays, helps offset the huge point loss you get from BK's.
Foreclosure:                        Avg. 85 - 160 point drop for each one
Points are lost based on your starting score. Don't forget, you have been losing a ton of points all along with the late pays and NOD's (I don't know what an NOD point cost is - I figure probably similar to another late payment).
Judgment:                           Avg. 50 - 150 point drop for each one
Points are lost based on your starting score. Again, you've most likely lost points already for late pays and charge off, and collection. This is just another hit with a hammer. Time passing does help. Paying it helps because it really affects your debt ratio, and if you try to buy or sell a house, it will have to be paid before escrow can close.
Settled Account:                 Avg. 45 - 125 point drop for each one
Points are lost based on your starting score. You've probably been hit with late pays, charge off, and / or collections, costing you a ton of points before you get to this scenario, then you get to lose more!  But, I absolutely loathe settling accounts. First, I don't agree that you actually owe most creditors, and definitely not a collector.  But what's worse, is you will get a 1099 Tax Form making you pay taxes on the amount forgiven as if it was income!!!!  Can you hear me screaming not to do this?
Maxed Out Account:             Avg. 10 - 45 point drop for each one
Points are lost based on your starting score. I think the higher monthly payments you have to make on the account are worse than the point drop you get.  Besides, as you keep making payments, you'll recover from this one fairly quickly - at least if you can make more than just the minimum payments.
"Hard" Inquiries:                   Avg. 5 - 55 point drop for each one
Points are lost based on how many you have in a short amount of time. If you're applying for credit all over the place, that's going to cause a lot of "hard" inquiries - the kind that cost points and everyone that pulls your credit can see. If you're applying for a mortgage, they don't count multiple pulls against you though, if they are within a 30 day period, because they know that loan officers may be required to pull several times when "shopping" your loan to get you the best rates.  Also, points from inquiries only affect your score for 1 year, and then there is no impact from them at all.

When you remove negatives like these from your credit report, you can expect to see your score increase.  I don't know the formula for that either, but you can sort of figure it will be about half the points from the low end to half the points of the high end in the point range for each item.  This is because time heals a bit and the points you initially lost are greatest right away then slowly you start getting some back.

Well, I hope I was able to give some information that may answer some questions. Please remember that because the algorithm is not disclosed, these numbers are just from testing and tracking done by research groups trying to have a better understanding of the scoring formula, and bits of information that FICO releases to give a little insight into how they score in order to help people manage their credit.                      

How Bad Credit Affects Your Credit Score (Part 1/3)

Part 1:  Breakdown of Your FICO Score

Some of the most common questions I get asked about credit repair are related to how my score is figured and how much will my credit score go up by removing these negatives.  I wish I could just give people an easy answer like, "Collections cost you 10 points each and charge offs cost you 20 points, etc." but its not that simple.  The FICO Score is broken up into 5 categories, but also, people are broken up into categories - or more so, demographics.  It is also based on what your previous FICO Score was before the negatives hit your report. The FICO Score is the model used by almost every lender when applying for major credit.

The five categories of a FICO Score are A) new credit; B) credit mix; C) credit history; D) length of credit history; and E) debt amounts.  I'll try to explain them in an easy way to understand:

• New Credit: This makes up 10% of your score. This is why having inquiries from "hard pulls" affect your credit score.  One or two over several months is not a big deal. But, if you're applying for credit all over town, on the internet, etc. it starts to ding your credit.  New credit is not bad but when you start having lots of inquiries and lots of new credit, all in a short time, your score will go down. The thing that adds back points in this category are utilizing the new credit, paying on time, and time itself.
• Credit Mix: This makes up 10% of your score. It means different types of credit. Revolving credit, installment credit, auto loans, mortgages, charge cards, credit lines, etc. Auto loans and mortgages are installments usually but so are some furniture and appliance store accounts. Student loans are also installment credit.  They like to see that you can handle paying different types of credit on time.
• Credit History: This makes up 35% of your score and represents how you have paid for your different reported accounts. This is where late pays affect your score, and they DO affect your score! It is also where charge offs and collections are factored in. Bankruptcies, judgments, tax liens and other bad credit items all are scored through this category.
• Length of Credit History:  This makes up 15% of your score. This is the category that rewards you for time. If you have credit cards that you've had for several years, it is a plus for your credit. This is the category that reinforces why you should not close "Old accounts" that you are not using. Go spend $5 on something and pay it off. Those oldies offset the affects of bad credit a bit, and when you get "baddies" you really want to hang onto the good ones.  In fact, these old trade lines are what really help your score when you start repairing your bad credit.  Can you imagine if you remove all your bad credit but had closed all your old good credit? You would have NO credit!  So, don't close those old cards, even if they have old lates on them. Lates fall off over time.
• Debt Amounts: This makes up 30% of your FICO Score. This is why finance professionals advise you to keep your debt balance at 30% of your credit limit.  Ideally, you should keep it at 19% of the credit limit because this number is where people have seen the highest credit scoring when they have done tracking and studied it.  Maxing out credit cards and credit lines burns your score pretty badly.  Paying regularly and paying them down so there is a greater ratio between the credit limit and the credit spent (balance) improves your score.

There is also another type of score you see on your credit reports. This is a "VantageScore".  I will explain this one on Part 2.

Watch Out For New Credit Card Fees

How many times have you gone to a retail store, usually small, or a gas station, and when you were going to use your credit or debit card, they charged you an additional fee?  ARCO gas stations are famous for their 35¢ charge for using a debit card. Those fees are completely legal.  But, charging to use your card as a credit card, those charges that merchants sometimes hit you with, has been illegal -- until now.  In January, merchants can now charge fees or surcharges when you purchase something from them with a credit card.

In the summer of 2012, the major credit card companies finally settled a lawsuit to the tune of $7.2 Billion dollars, yes, with a "B" for not playing fair on their credit card charges with all merchants.  However, part of the fine print of the settlement now allows merchants to pass on that surcharge to us, the consumers.  It may be in the form of a percentage of the sale, something like 1.5% - 3% or a set amount of some small amount similar to ARCO's 35¢ fee or Carl's Jr.'s fee of 75¢ to $1.50 per debit card transaction. The bad thing is, these fees start out small, mostly like nuisance fees, but over time, since its now legal to charge them on credit card purchases, I don't doubt we will see merchants slowly raise them up, up, up.

Many of the larger merchants, like WalMart, have publicly stated that they are not going to pass that surcharge on to the consumer.  But, there's no doubt that there will be many of the smaller local merchants all over the country imposing it on their clientele.  I have no doubt because though it has been illegal for years, there are some small stores and gas stations that I go to that have always charged the fee whether it is debit or credit.  Me and my big mouth, I always tell them that its illegal to charge it when I'm using credit.  Its a violation of their merchant agreement with the credit card issuers, and it is a violation of law in my state.

Most states are going to allow this surcharge to be passed on to the consumer but there are 10 states that have laws in place already and they are not changing those laws to accommodate merchants, even with this court approved settlement agreement.  The ten states that will still outlaw passing on the surcharge to consumers or charging consumers a "convenience" fee are:

• California
• Colorado
• Connecticut
• Florida
• Kansas
• Maine
• Massachusetts
• New York
• Oklahoma
• Texas 

 I'm in California. The law that makes this kind of activity illegal is California Civil Code 1748.1(a) and it says this:  

      "No retailer in any sales, service, or lease transaction with a 

       consumer may impose a surcharge on a cardholder who elects 

       to use a credit card in lieu of payment by cash, check, or 

       similar means.  A retailer may, however, offer discounts for 

       the purpose of inducing payment by cash, check or other 

       means not involving the use of a credit card, provided that 

       the discount is offered to all prospective buyers."

So, if you're in one of the above states, look for this law in your state's civil code.  If you are charged that fee illegally, and you want to do something about it, you can contact your state Attorney General or you actually have the right to sue for actual damages x 3 plus attorney and litigation fees.  Most people won't want to sue over such a small amount, I imagine, but contacting the state Attorney General, oh, and you can contact your credit card company and dispute it and complain to them as well, and that merchant will get in trouble.  They will get a warning at first, but repeat offenders may actually lose their privilege of accepting plastic payments, which will probably negatively affect their business.

You can also fight back by not using credit in those retail locations that legally or illegally charge that fee and going somewhere that allows you to purchase something without penalizing you for paying with  your credit card.  I use my debit card as a credit card but I've stopped using the major credit cards for a number of years now.  They just make too much money for nothing.  They illegally issue credit (when they are banks, its against the law for banks to lend credit) and they violate the Truth in Lending Act (TILA), Regulation Z, and further, they just create the money out of thin air, monetize your signature on your credit application and sell it, without ever giving you or crediting you the money they made off of it.  Then, they charge you to use your own money (yes, they didn't lend you a dime, and they made money before you even got the "credit" by selling YOUR signature), and then add interest charges, late charges, over the limit charges, fees for making your monthly payment, and if you're late, they put a strike against your credit.

 So, this is just a heads up on some new expenses you will probably start incurring this year, thanks to the greed of the credit card companies.  They are the ones that charge merchants and they pass it on to you so that their businesses don't suffer. Big banks and credit card companies, always finding ways to stick it to the little people and get richer and richer. Please don't take my opinion on being rich wrong. I thoroughly believe people should work hard to make as much money as they want and they should be able to keep it or spend it however they choose.  I just have a major problem with the way banks and credit cards make their money and am against bailouts for them when they don't need them, the consumers do. The consumers are the ones footing the bailout bill in the end also.  Besides, they have the ability to create "money" out of thin air, pretty much whenever they want, so I just have no pity for them at all.

If you're not going to be feeling these surcharges and fees because your credit cards are in collections or charged off and you can't pay them, read some of my other posts about disputing those collection accounts and collection agencies. You can repair your credit. You can restore it to where it was before so that you can get credit again.  You may think that you actually owe these credit card debts and somehow have to find a way to pay them. Please look through my blog and read the posts that will help you.  

As always, if you have questions or comments to make, feel free to hit the comment button below. If you need help with your credit, you can email or call me anytime.  That contact information is a the top right side of this page. I would love to be able to help in any way I can.