Credit Repair and Judgment Removal Blowout Sale!

Biggest Sale of 2017 & 2018 New Year Special!

For a very limited time, BLOWOUT SPECIALS: 

get a huge discount on my credit repair services and judgment removal from your credit reports services.

ENDS JANUARY 3, 2018
and space is very limited!

For judgment removal - I have a 100% success rate for removing judgments, paid or not, from credit reports and seeing successful results in a very short time.  Generally they are removed in less than 90 days, but usually much sooner than that.  Regular price for this service is $550.  For this special, the first judgment removal is $450 and additional judgment removals are only $400 each. (edit 12/30/17) - only 4 spaces left

Regular Credit Repair Services do not include the removal of public records. This service goes after regular accounts on your credit reports such as collections, charge offs, personal info, etc. Normal pricing and sale pricing is as follows:

1-6 items regularly $650 - now take $100 off.

7-15 items regularly $950 - now take $200 off

Over 15 items, regularly $1200 and up, now take $300 off.

Payment plans are available. Plus, since Future Fico is a non-profit, all payments are tax deductible, meaning you can write off the costs/donations, and the service is virtually free!

This sale is a limited time only.  Come on board by January 3, 2018 to take advantage of these deep discounts.

By law I am not allowed to guarantee any results.  However, I stand on my 31 years of experience and success. I am loyal, hardworking, knowledgeable, experienced, and fight harder than anyone in the business that I know of (and I know a LOT of people in this business).  I have trained many credit repair professionals/companies, taught thousands of credit professionals/individuals, and assisted many professionals with their tough client accounts, and shared massive amounts of information at no cost to thousands of people across the country, all who have used my knowledge  and advice to reap successful results.

I want to help you too!  This is what I do, day in and day out and I'm good at it.  I have tactics, secret strategies, numerous legal ammunition tools that many others don't even know about, to help you achieve the credit you desire.

CALL ME TODAY!  Let's get you started at a huge discount so that your 2018 can be spectacular.

951-801-2828

How Bad Credit Affects Your Credit Score (Part 3/3)

Part 3:  The effect bad credit habits have on your credit score

In the first 2 parts we talked about 2 of the most popular credit scoring models. Now I'm going to try to expose how the different bad categories affect your credit.  When I say "categories" I'm talking about collections, charge-offs, liens, late pays, judgments, bankruptcies, and accounts that are showing "Settled".  All of these things are negatives and hurt your credit score.  What's worse, is that they cost you money in higher interest rates, higher insurance rates.  Even your ability to get a better paying job, (or a job at all, in this economy), can be affected.

When you have negative credit on your credit report, the negatives cost you the most points when they are newly reported.  As time goes on, your score will raise a bit, regardless if you paid off the negative tradelines or not.  I always tell people that a negative is bad and once bad, always bad - even if its paid. It is just a "Paid" bad and costs you points.  In fact, when you pay an old negative, it sets a new date for how long that negative can stay on your credit.  That's one of the reasons why I don't advocate paying old debt at all.  You need to get those off, not just showing paid.

Exactly how the scoring and how many points for each baddie is figured, I can't say.  I do know some general information.  They like to keep the percentages and algorithms a secret.  Its my opinion that they do this because they don't want everyone having good credit.  Bad credit is Big Money.  Think about it, when you are offered pre-approved cards in the mail, they are almost always attached to higher interest rates, annual and sometimes monthly fees, teaser rates to start off with and then the rate jumps, and almost always, the type of cards offered are for people needing to rebuild their credit.  

These companies get your information from the bureaus.  The bureaus sell your information. They have lists of people grouped and categorized for sale. Those with bankruptcies approaching 2 years, those with paid collections or charge-offs, low FICO score range lists.  This is one of the main ways bureaus make money.  Now, these companies offering the credit cards, the ones that buy the lists from the bureaus, they stand to make a ton of money because the interest rates and fees are higher than what someone with A credit will accept.  As I said before, bad credit is big money, its big business.

So how many points do these negative items cost you?  Its not the same amount for every person. One thing that affects the amount your score will drop is what the FICO score was before the negative was placed on the credit.  The higher the credit score, then the more points a negative mark will cost you. I believe because this is true, that the points it costs you is a percentage of the starting score.  Also, the amount of points you get back when you get the negative removed is generally going to be less than the amount it cost you because the longer the negative is on your report, the less it costs you.  In other words, every time your credit score is updated, you may gain a few points.  Sometimes it updates because a new negative is put on, but it can be offset by the score raising a little bit, from the length of time older baddies have been on the report.  So time and changes to the report affect the score.

Here are what some of the different "baddies" will cost you in points, and why you need to get these deleted from your report, not just paid off.  Remember, its based on what your starting score it.

New Collection:                   Avg. 50 - 150 point drop for each one
Points lost are based on your starting score and the dollar amount of the collection reported.  It is a confusing formula, but this is what I have learned through research.  Initial points lost 50-100 for the first $236 then another 35-50 points lost for each additional $354. Then, they add back some points ranging from 76-175.  On a $1200 collection with a starting score of 700, there would be a loss of approximately 112 points.
Charge Off:                          Avg. 50 - 150 point drop for each one
Points are lost based on your starting score, but don't forget, this point drop is in addition to all the drops your score has suffered from the points lost for each 30 day late pay (and 60 - 180+ late pays), and then, when they sell it to a collection agency, you get dinged again when they report!
Late Pays:                            Avg. 60 - 110 point drop for each one
Points are lost based on your starting score.  The higher your score was to start with, the more points it costs you. With each successive late payment, it should drop less and less because the score is lowering each time.  But, late pays really hit you hard and cost you a lot of points.
Bankruptcy:                        Avg. 130 - 240 point drop
Points are lost based on your starting score.  You see the effect right away, but it causes all the collections, judgments, anything included in the BK to show paid. By the end of 2 years, your credit score can really see some recovery.  I've seen some credit reports that had the whole payment history removed on accounts that were included in the BK.  Removing all those late pays, helps offset the huge point loss you get from BK's.
Foreclosure:                        Avg. 85 - 160 point drop for each one
Points are lost based on your starting score. Don't forget, you have been losing a ton of points all along with the late pays and NOD's (I don't know what an NOD point cost is - I figure probably similar to another late payment).
Judgment:                           Avg. 50 - 150 point drop for each one
Points are lost based on your starting score. Again, you've most likely lost points already for late pays and charge off, and collection. This is just another hit with a hammer. Time passing does help. Paying it helps because it really affects your debt ratio, and if you try to buy or sell a house, it will have to be paid before escrow can close.
Settled Account:                 Avg. 45 - 125 point drop for each one
Points are lost based on your starting score. You've probably been hit with late pays, charge off, and / or collections, costing you a ton of points before you get to this scenario, then you get to lose more!  But, I absolutely loathe settling accounts. First, I don't agree that you actually owe most creditors, and definitely not a collector.  But what's worse, is you will get a 1099 Tax Form making you pay taxes on the amount forgiven as if it was income!!!!  Can you hear me screaming not to do this?
Maxed Out Account:             Avg. 10 - 45 point drop for each one
Points are lost based on your starting score. I think the higher monthly payments you have to make on the account are worse than the point drop you get.  Besides, as you keep making payments, you'll recover from this one fairly quickly - at least if you can make more than just the minimum payments.
"Hard" Inquiries:                   Avg. 5 - 55 point drop for each one
Points are lost based on how many you have in a short amount of time. If you're applying for credit all over the place, that's going to cause a lot of "hard" inquiries - the kind that cost points and everyone that pulls your credit can see. If you're applying for a mortgage, they don't count multiple pulls against you though, if they are within a 30 day period, because they know that loan officers may be required to pull several times when "shopping" your loan to get you the best rates.  Also, points from inquiries only affect your score for 1 year, and then there is no impact from them at all.

When you remove negatives like these from your credit report, you can expect to see your score increase.  I don't know the formula for that either, but you can sort of figure it will be about half the points from the low end to half the points of the high end in the point range for each item.  This is because time heals a bit and the points you initially lost are greatest right away then slowly you start getting some back.

Well, I hope I was able to give some information that may answer some questions. Please remember that because the algorithm is not disclosed, these numbers are just from testing and tracking done by research groups trying to have a better understanding of the scoring formula, and bits of information that FICO releases to give a little insight into how they score in order to help people manage their credit.                      

Should You Pay Off Those Collection Accounts?

So you've decided that this is the year to work on rebuilding your credit. You get a copy of your credit report and there are some collections on it. Or maybe you keep getting calls or letters from collectors - or both, and think that you should finally try to take care of some of them.

Stop! If you're thinking about paying them off, wait just a minute here! If you think it's going to improve your credit, think again. Always remember this. Once a negative, always a negative, when it comes to your credit report. Just because it's paid, does not mean they are going to move it into the positive accounts section. It's still a collection account, which is negative, it is just paid.

So, here are the facts for you to ponder. A collector bought your account. Basically, he paid off your debt for you, voluntarily I may add. If you asked a friend to make a payment on an account for you, does that make him or her a party to the original contract? No! They are voluntarily making a payment for you. You might make a little contract between you and your friend to pay back the money they used to make the payment, but, they are not part of the contract between you and the original creditor. That's a different agreement between the two of you.

It is the same with the collector. You did not enter into a contract with them to pay for this account, they did it on their own and now are trying to make you think that you have some obligation to them. You don't! Unless you signed another contract with them agreeing to pay them, they just took a chance, they gambled that they could coerce you into making them richer.

The best thing to do before giving any collector money, wait let me rephrase that. The best thing to do INSTEAD of giving any collector money, is to demand validation. The law says they have to prove you owe them money. You don't and they can't - prove it, that is. Dispute the debt with the collector. Do not accept a printout of a bill or charges as being validation. That is not validation, it is a bill. It is collection activity AFTER validation of the debt is requested. It is a violation of law.

The law says that when you dispute a debt with a collector, they must cease all collection activity until the debt is validated. Just about anything they do that does not validate is actually considered collection activity and is a violation of law. Keep track of every thing they do. Every letter, every phone call, every update made on your credit report. Every violation they make is worth money to you. Most violations are worth $1000 payable to you. That's a thousand bucks. They start adding up fast, to where they might actually owe you more than any credit line that was originally issued to you!

So here is what you do. Send them a letter, certified, return receipt. (CMRR). You will get a green card back in the mail as your receipt that they received it. The letter should tell them you are not avoiding paying, but you are not going to pay for something that you do not owe, and not to someone you don't owe it to. You are going to request from them several things that are very important.

First, request a copy of the original, wet ink signed, authentic, contract. Now, request that they supply you with the actual accounting of the debt. I mean, where did the money come from that created the credit issued to you? Where did the bank get the money they supposedly loaned to you, or the credit that they issued to you?

You see, the law says that banks cannot lend their own money. It also says they cannot lend their own credit. It also says they must have reserves that are a fraction of what they lend. Those are their member's deposits that are the reserves. So, they are not lending the member's reserves, not their own money, not their own credit. So, where did they get the money to lend you?

They created it out of thin air, basically. Actually, they monetized your signature on the contract and created a ledger for the account. Then they put an amount on the ledger of the value of your signature that they "approved". So, really, you supplied the "money" or "credit" with your signature. Then, they put another entry on the books. This one says that they gave that money to you and now you have to start paying it back. But, why would you pay them back money when they didn't give you the money? Your signature supplied the funds for the money or credit that you received.

Sounds confusing doesn't it? It's supposed to. They don't want you to know or understand it.

Here's another thing about credit. The contract you signed is void because in order for a contract to be legal and binding, all parties have to be at risk. But, who is actually at risk? Only you! It is a unilaterally risked contract and void. Since they really didn't put any money into it, they didn't risk anything. They assign an interest rate for the money that you loaned yourself. That is their profit. But actually, the whole amount and the interest is profit for them. Again, this is because they did not come out of pocket to issue the loan or credit. Your signature did!

Now here's a little more. When you default on this contract, they charge you more and more and more. Then the law says that after 6 months, they must charge off the account. So they do. That puts your balance at $0. All "monies" in the bank are insured. So now we're going to see them commit insurance fraud. They get paid off from the insurance the amount insured. They take a credit to their taxes for a loss - which I must remind you is not an actual loss, but a loss on what they wanted to fraudulently make. Then, here it comes.... they sell the account to a third party collector! Bang! They just made more money on an account they got a tax credit for, for an account they were paid in full by the insurance company, and now the collection company.

Daaanng! Not too bad of a trick for that original creditor, now was it? So, don't feel sorry for them that you can't "pay back" for this credit or money you were "given". The original creditor is out the cost of "managing the books", and from projected future earnings. The collector will be out the money they gambled on forcing you to pay back something you don't really owe, and the insurance company will write off the amount on their taxes.

What did it cost you? Well, hard earned money that you paid them, negative marks on your credit report, stress from worrying how you are going to pay and the harassment you have received from the pain in the butt phone calls and letters they sent you.

Dispute, dispute, dispute. And while you're at it, let them know that you know they didn't front the money, so they can just pay back all the money you sent them in error while not realizing that your signature funded the deal! Don't forget to dispute with the credit bureaus after getting the green card back for the letter you sent to the collector. That will help remove it from your credit report.

Are you feeling better about not paying them now? I hope so. Better to just dispute and get it off your credit and out of your life. Get a great credit report again, get some more credit cards, use them, take cash advances, and wash, rinse repeat! Your signature created the credit, it's your money, enjoy! You're not the one committing the fraud and creating faulty contracts that are void and unenforceable, they are. Who cares what your intention is with your new found knowledge? Play the game, but play it to your advantage!