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I have been helping people repair their credit for almost 40 yrs. You'll hear facts about credit repair here, not half truths and lies spewed at you by bureaus, negotiators and collectors that want to make money off of you. You can repair your credit yourself, though it is a tedious job. Or, if you would rather watch and learn, without dealing with creditors, collectors and bureaus, I would be happy to fight for you to improve your credit and your FICO score!
| STATE and TERMS | WHERE TO FIND LIST |
| Alaska - Only requires license for companies located in Alaska or out of state collecting for original creditors located in Alaska. | http://commerce.alaska.gov/CBP/Main/SearchInfo.aspx |
| Arizona - Allows collection agencies that have a valid license in another state that has similar licensing requirements and has a reciprocity clause to collect without obtaining an AZ license |
http://azdfi.gov/lists/CA_List.HTML |
| Arkansas - Requires a license whether they are located in the state or not, if attempting collection on a resident of Arkansas | http://www.asbca.org/collect_search/ |
| Colorado - Requires all debt collectors to be licensed and to maintain an office in the state, open to the public, if they want to try and collect from residents. | http://www.coloradoattorneygeneral.gov/sites/default/files/uploads/cab/CabReport.pdf They update the list every month I think, but I believe the link stays the same. |
| Connecticut - Have to have a license to collect, regardless of whether they are located in state or not. | http://www.ct.gov/dob/cwp/view.asp?a=2233&q=297872 There's a link at the bottom that is updated to view current licensees and also a tab on the left to verify a license. |
| Delaware - Must be licensed to collect in the state. They pay $75 to be licensed as Mercantile/collection agency but sometimes they license under personal or professional services as well. | https://dorweb.revenue.delaware.gov/bussrch/ This page has a search feature and the ability to download the list of licensed businesses. |
| Florida - Must be licensed if located in state. Must be licensed if out of state and collecting for creditor in state or soliciting accounts from creditors in state. Are not allowed to collect on medical bills for services covered under HMO's. | https://real.flofr.com/ConsumerServices/SearchLicensingRecords/Search.aspx |
| Hawaii - Must be licensed and bonded. However, for out of state collection companies, if they are licensed and bonded in another state, they can apply for an exemption. But, the exemption is not automatic. It must be approved and granted by the state. | http://pvl.ehawaii.gov/pvlsearch/app This link is to search for licenses. http://hawaii.gov/dcca/pvl/programs/collection/ This page has a link to file complaints against the collectors and look up their complaint history as well! |
| Idaho - Must be licensed whether in state or not to try to collect alleged debts from residents | http://finance.idaho.gov/CollectionAgency/CollectionAgencyLicense.aspx |
| Illinois - Must be licensed unless they are out of state and are licensed with equivalent requirements from that state | https://www.idfpr.com/licenselookup/licenselookup.asp |
| Illinois - City of Chicago Only - Must have a license in both Chicago and the state license. However, if they have an exemption with the state of Illinois, they can get one in Chicago too. | https://data.cityofchicago.org/Community-Economic-Development/Business-Licenses-Current-Active/uupf-x98q |
| Indiana - Must be licensed and bonded. | http://www.in.gov/apps/sos/securities/sos_securities |
| Iowa - Not required to be licensed but must register if they collect $25,000 or more in a calendar year. Applies to creditors and collectors | http://www.state.ia.us/government/ag/images/pdfs/Contacts_ICCC_Notification_Fe.pdf |
| Louisiana - Must be licensed and bonded | http://www.sos.la.gov/BusinessServices/SearchForLouisianaBusinessFilings/Pages/default.aspx |
| Maine - Must be licensed and bonded | http://pfr.informe.org/ALMSOnline/ALMSQuery/Welcome.aspx |
| Maryland - Must be licensed and bonded | http://www.dllr.state.md.us/finance/industry/licsearch.shtml You can search by name or location. |
| Massachusetts - Must be licensed and they use a service called Nationwide Multistate Licensing System (NMLS) | http://www.nmlsconsumeraccess.org/ Looks like its for mortgage brokers but its actually for debt collectors too |
| Michigan - Must be licensed whether in state or not to try to collect alleged debts from residents | http://www.dleg.state.mi.us/verify.htm |
| Minnesota - Individual debt collector (human being) and the collection company they work for must be licensed. | http://mn.gov/commerce/banking-and-finance/consumers/license-lookup/license-lookup.jsp |
| Nebraska - Must be licensed and bonded | http://www.sos.ne.gov/licensing/collection/pdf/licensed-collection-agencies.pdf |
| Nevada - Must be licensed and bonded | https://fid.online.nv.gov/datamart/selSearchType.do?from=loginPage |
| New Jersey - Must be bonded whether in state or not to try to collect alleged debts from residents | http://www.nj.gov/treasury/revenue/collagency.shtml You have to request a verification of the bond by mail. |
| New Mexico - Must be licensed and bonded whether in state or not to try to collect alleged debts from residents | http://rldverification.rld.state.nm.us/Verification/Search.aspx?facility=Y In the "License Type" drop down list, select collection agency |
| New York - City of Buffalo Only - Must be licensed and bonded whether in state or not to try to collect alleged debts from residents | http://www.city-buffalo.com/Home/City_Departments/EDPIS/Licenses/LicensedContractors |
| New York - New York City Only - Must be licensed whether in state or not to try to collect alleged debts from residents and must include license number on all correspondence | http://www.nyc.gov/html/dca/html/licenses/license_check.shtml |
| North Carolina - Must be licensed and bonded whether in state or not to try to collect alleged debts from residents. | https://sbs-nc.naic.org/Lion-Web/jsp/sbsreports/CompanySearchLookup.jsp Use "company type" for drop down to collection agency http://www.ncdoi.com/ASD/ASD_Consumer.aspx Use this link to file a complaint! |
| North Dakota - Must be licensed and bonded whether in state or not to try to collect alleged debts from residents. This includes every branch office they may use for collection activity | http://www.nd.gov/dfi/regulate/reg/regulated.asp |
| Oregon - Must be licensed and bonded whether in state or not to try to collect alleged debts from residents. | http://www4.cbs.state.or.us/ex/all/mylicsearch/index.cfm?fuseaction=main.show_main&group_id=20&profession_id=22&profession_sub_id=22000&profession_name=Collection%20Agencies |
| Rhode Island - Must be licensed whether in state or not to try to collect alleged debts from residents. May also have to have a bond. | http://www.dbr.state.ri.us/documents/divisions/banking/program_operations/List_of_Debt_Collectors.pdf |
| Tennessee - Must be licensed and bonded. However, for out of state collection companies, if they are licensed and bonded in another state, they can apply for an exemption. But, the exemption is not automatic. It must be approved and granted by the state. | http://verify.tn.gov/ |
| Texas - Must be bonded whether in state or not to try to collect alleged debts from residents | https://direct.sos.state.tx.us/debtcollectors/dcsearch.asp |
| Utah - Must be registered with the Div. of Corporations and Commercial code and bonded whether in state or not to try to collect alleged debts from residents | https://secure.utah.gov/bes/ |
| Washington - Must be licensed and bonded whether in state or not to try to collect alleged debts from residents. Also includes debt buyers. | https://fortress.wa.gov/dol/dolprod/bpdLicenseQuery/ |
| West Virginia - Must be licensed and bonded and have an office in state to perform collection activities | http://apps.sos.wv.gov/business/corporations/ |
| Wisconsin - Must be licensed and bonded to collect in state. Out of state exemption if only performing collection activity via "interstate telecommunications and interstate mail." ~ To me, this sounds like they can't sue you if they are out of the state and don't have a license or bond and they have an exemption. | http://www.wdfi.org/fi/lfs/licensee_lists/ |
| Wyoming - Must be licensed and bonded and have an actual office with resident manager in the state. Every office or branch must be licensed and bonded. Exemptions for collecting business and or commercial debt or law firm collecting for the TRUE name of the original creditor. Also, do not have to be licensed if the alleged debt they are attempting to collect originated out of state on the internet or by mail. | http://audit.state.wy.us/banking/cab/cablicensees.htm |
Q: I have a terrible credit history with bankruptcy, charge offs etc. making it impossible to get or re-establish credit. I used to have good credit but alot of things started happening 3 years ago that I don't want to go into, which caused me to start having the problems which culminated in my credit being destroyed. Anyway I've been reading about ways to have negative things removed from one's credit report. Has anyone ever done this? Can you actually have valid entries removed from your credit report even if they're true, if they don't respond to the dispute in time? Do you have to do this for all 3 credit bureaus? What if one removes an item and the other 2 don't? Could someone take some time and please reply to this post? If I don't have to wait seven years to get a chance to work on getting a good credit rating again if I don't have to.
A: -Our local news did a piece of this just last nite. Basically the only thing that will repair bad credit is time. These companies that say they can "remove" bad ratings are scams. -Be careful; some of those "ways" are illegal. Starting a business and using the business tax ID to create a "blank" credit file, for example, is blatant fraud. And, depending on the circumstances, saying that a particular negative incident didn't happen, when you know perfectly well that it did, could be fraud as well. If you think living with a bad credit record is tough, try living with a bad credit record and a felony conviction... If you dispute an entry, and it's not verified in (I believe) 30 days, then the entry has to be removed from the credit report. However, if the verification comes in later, then the entry goes right back on; there's no law or rule that says that correct information can't be put on a credit report because it was removed once. Then a creditor that only gets your report from that credit bureau won't see the item. However, some creditors get reports from multiple bureaus, or use other companies to get composite reports combining information from all the bureaus. And asking a creditor what credit bureaus they use is bound to raise some eyebrows. It's worth pointing out that credit reports are not just "good" or "bad"; there's all sorts of shades in between. For example, if your credit report shows credit problems two years in the past, but an excellent payment history since then, then a creditor may decide that the recent history is more important. If you feel that some of the entries on the credit report are unjustified, then by all means dispute them. But you should be concentrating on rebuilding a good credit profile in the present by making payments promptly, rather than concentrating on past events that you can't control. And be forthright about your situation. When you apply for a loan, don't wait for the creditor to pull your credit report and see the damage; attach a letter saying "Here's what happened to me, and here's what I'm doing to make sure it doesn't happen again." This sort of honesty can go a long way with some creditors; and the creditors who would reject you on the basis of such a letter would almost certainly reject you on the basis of negative credit report information anyway, so you've got very little to lose.
Okay. Now here is my response. I'm going to pick apart the answer and then help him with the correct information and help anyone else in a similar situation.
First of all, time is not the only thing that will repair bad credit. Removing the bad credit is possible with credit repair. That's why we have the FCRA, FDCPA, FCBA and FACTA on our side.
2nd. All credit repair companies are not scams. Yeah, lots of those law firms and companies that drag it out and do very little for you so they can keep collecting from you month after month are not completely legit, but many of us that do repair credit, do it legally, ethically and with genuine care for our clients.
3rd. The business tax id is fraud. Depends how you do it. Basically, the way they are saying is fraud. But, starting a business and building good business credit is not fraud. You should use the business credit while repairing the personal credit at the same time to really improve your credit. See my friend's blog or get his book on that. Corporate credit is a good thing! Here's a link to his blog. SecretSuperCredit
4th. Saying something isn't so when you know it is, is not fraud - if you say it correctly. This is why I don't tell people to say "it isn't mine", no, pick it apart. Are their dates correct, the type of credit correct, is it a collection account that you have never entered into a contract with that company? I've never seen a perfectly reporting credit report. They all have mistakes on them. Find the mistakes and dispute them, telling them to delete the line because it is not 100% accurate, as it must be according to law! Anything less is a violation of both the FDCPA and the FCRA on the part of the bureaus and the party that submitted the info.
5th. Items not verified in 30 days but come back on later when they do verify. Yep, this does happen, but there are laws to protect you here also. If it comes back, the bureau has to notify you in writing within 5 days that it is going to be put back on your credit report. If they do not, they broke the law. And, if you have demanded validation prior to that from the supplier of the information - the collection company, then they just broke the law too. Why? Because that is collection activity without first validating the account with you. Rack up another $2000 minimum for those violations.
6th. Letter of explanation to lenders. Only give this if they request it. What's better, is before you apply for credit, clean up the "baddies". Don't put 100 word statements on your credit report either, for those negative tradelines. You're basically admitting they are your accounts.
Now, here's my answer and suggestion of how to proceed to the original poster of the question.
Dear poster, yes you can repair your credit and no you don't have to wait 7 years for it to be improved. But let's do this right. First, look at your credit report and make a list of all the collection accounts, charged off accounts, and accounts showing late pays. Ignore the bankruptcy for now.
Write a letter to each of the negative reporting companies requesting validation. Tell them you want a copy of the original contract with your wet ink, authentic signature on it. Then tell them you want a complete accounting of the alleged account. From the date it was issued - where the money came from, every purchase, every payment, every credit, every fee, and accurate interest that was charged to the account. Send these letters CMRR and keep a file with a copy of each letter. When you get the return receipt for the certified mail that you sent them, put that in your file. Now you can send letters to the bureaus regarding each of those accounts after you have received all the green cards back (the return receipts).
You will dispute each one in the letter to the bureaus. The collection accounts, say I do not have an account with this company, please delete. Or I have never entered into any contract, ever, with this company. Please delete immediately. If it is outside of your state's statute of limitations (look that up), California, my state is 4 years. Say this. The date reporting is blatantly outside of the SOL and obsolete. Please delete immediately. Or attack it by saying I did not open an account with this company on this date nor have I ever. Please delete. Maybe it is the wrong type of account. A revolving, not a factoring, or not an installment or a mortgage, whatever. Say "I do not have a factoring account with this company, please delete it."
You see, when you dispute with the bureaus, you dispute their mistakes. Now, they are supposed to verify with the information supplier that what is reporting is accurate. So you have 30 days for them to get back to you. You have just done what is called the "1-2 Punch." The information suppliers are not allowed to verify if you have demanded validation from them and they have not sent you the validation. That would be considered collection activity. So, the ones that follow the law will not respond and it will be deleted. The only thing they are allowed to do is make a statement that the account is disputed.
For the bankruptcy, before you ever dispute that you had a bankruptcy, remove all the tradelines associated with the bankruptcy. Once they are gone, attack the bankruptcy. It will possibly have the wrong court, the wrong date, the wrong amount, the wrong type of bankruptcy being reported. Remember, everything has to be 100% accurate that is on your report. So, your dispute will be that you never filed a bk in whatever court, you did not have a bk on whatever date, you did not have a chapter 13 bk or chapter 7 bk for $0 dollars (I see that a lot). Dispute their mistakes. Demand they delete immediately!
I hope this helps you my poster friend and readers.