Raise It or You Waive It

Whether you are disputing information regarding a derogatory account from a creditor or an alleged account with a 3rd party collector, you need to be specific about what is wrong with how they are reporting that item on your credit report.  You need to raise the issues in your dispute letters and hold them accountable to prove it.

With an original creditor, you will most likely be disputing the amount of the balance they claim is owed after they charge it off.  Here are some thing you should be disputing:

• There is no balance because they claim to have charged off the account and it is a FACT that there is insurance on each account to protect the creditor  against asset loss.  Did they receive monies from an insurance claim that paid off the alleged account balance?
• Did they even fund the account or did you?  
• Did they take tax credits?
• Are they the creditor or really just the servicer?
• Did they disclose that they were charging you for the insurance premium to protect against asset loss?
• Did they get your approval in writing agreeing to the amount of the premium as require by law?
• Did they get the insurance payoff prior to charging off the account?
• Is the contract creating the account even valid since they lacked full disclosure and equal risk?
• Do they even have a certified copy of the original contract bearing both your signature and their authorized representative's signature?
• Can they provide a full accounting showing every charge, every payment, every fee, every interest charge, every credit -including the insurance claim monies received, and any other amount along with the date each event occurred? *This does not mean they get to send you monthly billing statements. They need a full history document).

All of these questions are threatening to an "original creditor" because if they are truthful, they will have to admit that the contract was not valid, they lent you nothing, you covered the premium for the insurance for their benefit, the insurance paid off the account prior to charging off the account, and YOU funded the account, not them.  They need to respond point by point on each issue raised and provide documentation for everything they claim. Plus, verification requires a sworn affidavit, so that's how you need to tell them to respond.

With a 3rd party collector you should be raising some of these issues if not all of them:

• Were you named on the original contract with the original creditor?
• If not, do you have a contract between your company and me, signed by both parties?
• If not, produce the document authorizing the release of my information from the original creditor to you (Power of Attorney), signed by me. It is against the law for a creditor to share your information to any party other than the account holder without their authorization. Giving your information to a 3rd party without your knowledge or consent is perpetrating identity theft,
• Do you have first hand knowledge about everything that has transpired with the alleged account, including when the account allegedly belonged to the original creditor and any other parties prior to your acquisition?
• Do you have written consent to collect information about me and to share information about me with the credit reporting agencies - in writing, signed by me? 

When you receive a response back and it doesn't respond to each issue raised and doesn't include certified documentation backing up each response, you must call them out on their failure to validate.  Again, verification is the sworn testimony so they also should be responding to you in that format. Validation is the documentation backing up their testimony. One without the other is hearsay and inadmissible.

You always need to respond to their response and raise the point that they did NOT provide the answers and documentation you requested. You need to raise the point that they did not respond with a sworn affidavit of verification. They failed to validate. They failed to prove their claim. They are in default in their response/lack of response to the dispute and issues raised.  If you do not respond and call them out, you waive your right to claim they did not prove you owe them or that there is a valid contract.

I ALWAYS include the Maxim of Law - Silence Equates to Acquiescence (Agreement) in each of my letters.  This tells them that if they don't address even one item as requested, they agree that your statement of fact is true.  It is part of your full disclosure to them that you require a response and lack of receiving what is requested or demanded from them proves you owe them nothing.

So raise your disputes. Don't remain silent. Always be the last to respond until they respond that they are removing the item from your credit report and closing the alleged account.

If you need assistance with credit repair and want an expert on your side, contact me for an audit of your reports and consultation to go over what needs to be done for your credit and pricing plans that can get you up and running quickly.  Just a reminder that Future Fico is a non-profit so your service costs are donations that are tax deductible for you!

Contact me today!

How To Deal With Collection Agencies ~ Part 4 (States With License and/or Bonding Requirements)

This is my final post in this series and I'm sorry that I'm so late in getting it out, especially for those of you who have been checking and waiting for it.  This post is about a very important tool to use against the collection agencies who are harassing you, badgering you, or simply just trying to take your money from you.  I cannot stress enough how important it is that you don't just go and pay these 3rd party collectors.  It will add years of negative credit to your credit reports and can be so much harder to get them to come off when they've been paid.

Now, we've covered a couple tools already. States that have their own version of the FDCPA, and my little bonus of UCC codes on that one. Then, the Statute of Limitations (SOL) for each state.  Here's a little bonus on the SOL that I recently discovered, and those of you in states that have ridiculously long SOL's are going to love this.  UCC 3-118(g) and UCC 4-111 state that the SOL is 3 years!

Yep, 3 years. UCC 3-118(g) is important for credit because this has to do with negotiable instruments and conversion of an instrument.  That's what they do with credit accounts, be it credit cards, credit lines, mortgages, "money lent" by financial institutions. They don't lend money, they lend credit, which is illegal, and they convert the loan docs, application, eg. promissory note or negotiable instrument, whatever you want to call it, into "money. 3 years, folks, 3 years!

Okay, lets get into this last tool.  Many of you are going to love it. This tool is a list of the states that require debt collectors to be licensed and/or bonded to conduct collection activity within their borders.  This usually goes for debt collection law firms as well.  They used to love that they could get away with their sleazy tactics because they were a law firm. But now, if debt collection is the main function of their law firm, they are lumped in the pile of cow poo that is the 3rd party collectors and junk debt buyers that try to collect from consumers.

Most states publish a list of all the licensed debt collection companies.  Some states allow collection acts if they are licensed in other states with similar licensing requirements.  Also, some states have cities that have license requirements as well, to protect the residents of their cities from these scum.  It is wonderful!  I've included the web addresses to look up the collection company or information how to get a list of the 3rd party collectors to see if the ones bugging you are licensed. Most of these state sites have links or instructions how to file complaints against them too.

I want to apologize to those of you who live in states that don't seem to care enough to enact legislation that requires these bullies to get licensed or bonded.  I know, its not me that should apologize, it's them, but you know they will never issue a sincere apology to you. I'm in that same boat as many of you. I'm in California and they don't require licensing or bonding for debt collectors here either.  Its sad. Personally, I think its because its such a money making business for the state to get the court fees from all of them and all the consumers who get sued and lose or have to pay a court filing fee to fight the collectors.  They probably make much more by allowing all that fraudulent nonsense than they would through licensing fees.

Well, read on!  Here's the list!

STATE and TERMS	WHERE TO FIND LIST
Alaska - Only requires license for companies located in Alaska or out of state collecting for original creditors located in Alaska.	http://commerce.alaska.gov/CBP/Main/SearchInfo.aspx
Arizona - Allows collection agencies that have a valid license in another state that has similar licensing requirements and has a reciprocity clause to collect without obtaining an AZ license	http://azdfi.gov/lists/CA_List.HTML
Arkansas - Requires a license whether they are located in the state or not, if attempting collection on a resident of Arkansas	http://www.asbca.org/collect_search/
Colorado - Requires all debt collectors to be licensed and to maintain an office in the state, open to the public, if they want to try and collect from residents.	http://www.coloradoattorneygeneral.gov/sites/default/files/uploads/cab/CabReport.pdf They update the list every month I think, but I believe the link stays the same.
Connecticut - Have to have a license to collect, regardless of whether they are located in state or not.	http://www.ct.gov/dob/cwp/view.asp?a=2233&q=297872  There's a link at the bottom that is updated to view current licensees and also a tab on the left to verify a license.
Delaware - Must be licensed to collect in the state. They pay $75 to be licensed as Mercantile/collection agency but sometimes they license under personal or professional services as well.	https://dorweb.revenue.delaware.gov/bussrch/ This page has a search feature and the ability to download the list of licensed businesses.
Florida - Must be licensed if located in state. Must be licensed if out of state and collecting for creditor in state or soliciting accounts from creditors in state. Are not allowed to collect on medical bills for services covered under HMO's.	https://real.flofr.com/ConsumerServices/SearchLicensingRecords/Search.aspx
Hawaii - Must be licensed and bonded. However, for out of state collection companies, if they are licensed and bonded in another state, they can apply for an exemption. But, the exemption is not automatic. It must be approved and granted by the state.	http://pvl.ehawaii.gov/pvlsearch/app This link is to search for licenses. http://hawaii.gov/dcca/pvl/programs/collection/ This page has a link to file complaints against the collectors and look up their complaint history as well!
Idaho - Must be licensed whether in state or not to try to collect alleged debts from residents	http://finance.idaho.gov/CollectionAgency/CollectionAgencyLicense.aspx
Illinois - Must be licensed unless they are out of state and are licensed with equivalent requirements from that state	https://www.idfpr.com/licenselookup/licenselookup.asp
Illinois - City of Chicago Only - Must have a license in both Chicago and the state license. However, if they have an exemption with the state of Illinois, they can get one in Chicago too.	https://data.cityofchicago.org/Community-Economic-Development/Business-Licenses-Current-Active/uupf-x98q
Indiana - Must be licensed and bonded.	http://www.in.gov/apps/sos/securities/sos_securities
Iowa - Not required to be licensed but must register if they collect $25,000 or more in a calendar year. Applies to creditors and collectors	http://www.state.ia.us/government/ag/images/pdfs/Contacts_ICCC_Notification_Fe.pdf
Louisiana - Must be licensed and bonded	http://www.sos.la.gov/BusinessServices/SearchForLouisianaBusinessFilings/Pages/default.aspx
Maine - Must be licensed and bonded	http://pfr.informe.org/ALMSOnline/ALMSQuery/Welcome.aspx
Maryland - Must be licensed and bonded	http://www.dllr.state.md.us/finance/industry/licsearch.shtml  You can search by name or location.
Massachusetts - Must be licensed and they use a service called Nationwide Multistate Licensing System (NMLS)	http://www.nmlsconsumeraccess.org/  Looks like its for mortgage brokers but its actually for debt collectors too
Michigan - Must be licensed whether in state or not to try to collect alleged debts from residents	http://www.dleg.state.mi.us/verify.htm
Minnesota - Individual debt collector (human being) and the collection company they work for must be licensed.	http://mn.gov/commerce/banking-and-finance/consumers/license-lookup/license-lookup.jsp
Nebraska - Must be licensed and bonded	http://www.sos.ne.gov/licensing/collection/pdf/licensed-collection-agencies.pdf
Nevada - Must be licensed and bonded	https://fid.online.nv.gov/datamart/selSearchType.do?from=loginPage
New Jersey - Must be bonded whether in state or not to try to collect alleged debts from residents	http://www.nj.gov/treasury/revenue/collagency.shtml  You have to request a verification of the bond by mail.
New Mexico - Must be licensed and bonded whether in state or not to try to collect alleged debts from residents	http://rldverification.rld.state.nm.us/Verification/Search.aspx?facility=Y  In the "License Type" drop down list, select collection agency
New York - City of Buffalo Only - Must be licensed and bonded whether in state or not to try to collect alleged debts from residents	http://www.city-buffalo.com/Home/City_Departments/EDPIS/Licenses/LicensedContractors
New York - New York City Only - Must be licensed whether in state or not to try to collect alleged debts from residents and must include license number on all correspondence	http://www.nyc.gov/html/dca/html/licenses/license_check.shtml
North Carolina - Must be licensed and bonded whether in state or not to try to collect alleged debts from residents.	https://sbs-nc.naic.org/Lion-Web/jsp/sbsreports/CompanySearchLookup.jsp Use "company type" for drop down to collection agency http://www.ncdoi.com/ASD/ASD_Consumer.aspx  Use this link to file a complaint!
North Dakota - Must be licensed and bonded whether in state or not to try to collect alleged debts from residents. This includes every branch office they may use for collection activity	http://www.nd.gov/dfi/regulate/reg/regulated.asp
Oregon - Must be licensed and bonded whether in state or not to try to collect alleged debts from residents.	http://www4.cbs.state.or.us/ex/all/mylicsearch/index.cfm?fuseaction=main.show_main&group_id=20&profession_id=22&profession_sub_id=22000&profession_name=Collection%20Agencies
Rhode Island - Must be licensed whether in state or not to try to collect alleged debts from residents.  May also have to have a bond.	http://www.dbr.state.ri.us/documents/divisions/banking/program_operations/List_of_Debt_Collectors.pdf
Tennessee - Must be licensed and bonded. However, for out of state collection companies, if they are licensed and bonded in another state, they can apply for an exemption. But, the exemption is not automatic. It must be approved and granted by the state.	http://verify.tn.gov/
Texas - Must be bonded whether in state or not to try to collect alleged debts from residents	https://direct.sos.state.tx.us/debtcollectors/dcsearch.asp
Utah - Must be registered with the Div. of Corporations and Commercial code and bonded whether in state or not to try to collect alleged debts from residents	https://secure.utah.gov/bes/
Washington - Must be licensed and bonded whether in state or not to try to collect alleged debts from residents. Also includes debt buyers.	https://fortress.wa.gov/dol/dolprod/bpdLicenseQuery/
West Virginia - Must be licensed and bonded and have an office in state to perform collection activities	http://apps.sos.wv.gov/business/corporations/
Wisconsin - Must be licensed and bonded to collect in state. Out of state exemption if only performing collection activity via "interstate telecommunications and interstate mail."  ~ To me, this sounds like they can't sue you if they are out of the state and don't have a license or bond and they have an exemption.	http://www.wdfi.org/fi/lfs/licensee_lists/
Wyoming - Must be licensed and bonded and have an actual office with resident manager in the state. Every office or branch must be licensed and bonded. Exemptions for collecting business and or commercial debt or law firm collecting for the TRUE name of the original creditor.  Also, do not have to be licensed if the alleged debt they are attempting to collect originated out of state on the internet or by mail.	http://audit.state.wy.us/banking/cab/cablicensees.htm

Now, I hope you noticed that Illinois has a state licensing requirement but so does the city of Chicago. This means that if you live in Chicago, Illinois, the debt collector has to have a license for both the state and the city of Chicago.  I can honestly say, this is one thing that it appears Chicago is doing right!  If you get a bill from a debt collector, and you demand validation and they respond, you've got them.  Heck, you've got them if they aren't licensed. REPORT THEM IMMEDIATELY, at the same time you send them a "Ha, Ha, you're gonna get it" letter!

The state of New York DOES NOT have any licensing requirements. But the city of Buffalo does and New York City has licensing laws too!  Its not as good as Chicago, but heck, if you live in one of those two cities, you're faring better than the rest of the folks in the state of New York that live in other cities!

Make sure if you're in one of these states or cities that require licensing, registration or bonding, you look up that 3rd party collector. You never know, they may not be licensed, and that will make your credit repair efforts that much easier! Some states may have quirky little exemptions,  but for the most part, all of these states require some sort of licensing and/or bonding.

You should use this tool.  Also, I urge you to file complaints on these 3rd party collectors for every little violation that they do. You may have to do a little bit of searching on your state's correct government website to find how to file a complaint, but do it.  If they get repeated complaints from consumers, they will get fined and can get their licenses revoked. Getting these companies banned from collecting in your state helps all consumers. Then it may be a little easier to get bad debt removed from your credit reports because they will NOT be allowed to report on your credit reports in any way, shape or form because it is considered "collection activity" and without a license, it is blatantly illegal!

I like giving you assistance in your fight to rid your credit reports of these blood suckers and I hope that this information helps your pursuit of pretty credit a bit easier.  If cleaning up your credit is a bigger job than you want to handle on your own, please give me a call or email me.  I'd love to be the one you choose to help you.

How To Deal With Collection Agencies ~ Part 3 (State Statute Of Limitations For Credit Cards)

A lot of the bad credit that is on credit reports is from collection agencies.  But, there are original creditors too that report, so you may have 2 or more negative entries on your report for the same alleged debt.  This tool, the State Statute of Limitations (SOL) is great for both.  Now, most states have reasonable SOL's but there are a few that are absolutely insane!  When an alleged debt is outside of the SOL it is considered Time-Barred and non-collectible.  But, that doesn't stop many of these collection agencies, and some creditors, from still going after you.  What is completely ridiculous, is that they legally can!  Well, that is, unless you put a stop to them.

How do you put a stop to them, through a demand for validation and then a follow up with a Cease & Desist (C&D) letter.  Some are arrogant and greedy enough though to file a civil claim against you.  That can easily be defeated by taking their lame attempt at validation (usually some printout or a copy of the last bill from the original creditor) that clearly shows a date from years ago.   I have actually seen them dummy up a new statement with a current date on it, supposedly from the original creditor, to try to re-age and trick the alleged debtor into giving up and just paying them.

I'm going to shout now, and bang my head against a wall - DON'T DO IT!!! DON'T PAY THEM!!!

Dig around for a true old bill or contact the original creditor for a copy of the statement.  Ask them to send you back a copy of the last bill that you paid or better yet, check your credit report. Usually, the original creditor will put a somewhat accurate date on the credit report, and Equifax has a little chart that shows when you did and didn't make payments.  That is proof of the Date of Last Activity (DLA), which is when the SOL starts tolling.  If you're sued, then that will be one of your exhibits in your answer to the complaint, proving that it is time barred and they have no recourse.  Don't forget, you want to keep copies of your letters demanding validation and their responses.  It is just more proof that they didn't validate, so they are in violation of the FDCPA (continuing collection activity without validating or verifying the alleged debt).

So, let's get to it. Here are the Statute of Limitations for Open Accounts, which represent credit card accounts, which are the main type of negative credit that annoys most of us, for every US state and several territories. 

STATE	NUMBER OF YEARS	ANY COMMENTS
Alabama	3 Yrs	Actions based on fraud - 2 yrs
Alaska	3 Yrs	Used to be 6 yrs
Arizona	6 Yrs  or  4 years On July 20, 2011 AZ changed its statutes to include credit cards as written contracts. If the default/DLA is prior to 7/20/11 then the prior 3 year statute of limitations (SOL) applies. If the DLA is after 7/20/11 then the new SOL applies.  Now, the new 4 year SOL is for credit card accounts obtained outside the state of AZ and the 6 year SOL applies to credit cards obtained in the state of AZ.  So check the billing address of your credit card account to see whether your credit card is inside or outside of AZ.	Judgments have to be renewed w/in 5 yrs. Pymt w/o acknowledgment doesn't restart the SOL
Arkansas	3 Yrs	Medical 2yrs from service or last payment, whichever is latest
California	4 Yrs	SOL stopped if pymt made after SOL expires - In other words, Do Not Make Pymt after it expires! But, pymt w/o acknowledgment does not restart the SOL
Colorado	3 Yrs	Jdgmt can renew every 6 yrs
Connecticut	6 Yrs	Open is considered written
Delaware	3 Yrs	Considered a general contract
District of Columbia	3 Yrs	Oral promise restarts SOL!!
Florida	4-5 Yrs	Contract or Written instrument is 5 yrs but all other is 4 yrs. Pymt w/o acknowledgment doesn't restart the SOL
Georgia	4 Yrs	From date of default, not last pymt. Making a pymt without acknowledging the alleged debt does not restart the SOL.
Guam	6 Yrs	For contracts such as medical bills, the SOL is 4 yrs from date of service
Hawaii	6 Yrs	Jdgmt can renew 10 yrs
Idaho	4 Yrs	Jdgmt can renew 5 yrs
Illinois	5 Yrs	Pymt or promise to pay extends it to 10 yrs from that date
Indiana	6 Yrs	Pymt, acknowledgment or a promise to pay restarts the SOL
Iowa	5 Yrs	Pymt, acknowledgment or promise to pay restarts SOL
Kansas	3 Yrs	Written contracts SOL is 5 years. Many sources claim SOL for credit cards is 5 yrs but that is not so according to Article 5, 60-512 of Kansas statutes.  Pymt w/o acknowledgment doesn't restart the SOL
Kentucky	5 Yrs	Judgment 15 yrs
Louisiana	3 Yrs	Jdgmt can renew 10 yrs
Maine	6 Yrs	Jdgmt is 20 yrs (don't let that happen to you! Pymt w/o acknowledgment doesn't restart the SOL
Maryland	3 Yrs	Reaffirming through written, orally or a pymt restarts SOL
Massachusetts	6 Yrs	Judgment 20 years, probate claims 1 yr from date of death. Pymt w/o acknowledgment doesn't restart the SOL
Michigan	6 Yrs	Jdgmt can renew 10 yrs. Pymt w/o acknowledgment doesn't restart the SOL
Minnesota	6 Yrs	Pymt or written acknowledgement restarts the SOL
Mississippi	3 Yrs	Jdgmt can renew 7 yrs. Pymt w/o acknowledgment doesn't restart the SOL
Missouri	5 Yrs	Jdgmt can renew 10 yrs. Pymt w/o acknowledgment doesn't restart the SOL
Montana	8 Yrs	Written acknowledgment or pymt restarts SOL
Nebraska	4 Yrs	Pymt, partial pymt, or written acknowledgment restarts SOL
Nevada	4 Yrs	Pymt w/o acknowledgment of alleged debt doesn't restart SOL
New Hampshire	3 Yrs	Pymt restarts the SOL
New Jersey	6 Yrs	Jdgmt can renew at 20 yrs - that's insane!
New Mexico	4 Yrs	Written acknowledgment or pymt restarts the SOL
New York	6 Yrs	Pymt w/o acknowledgment doesn't restart the SOL
North Carolina	3 Yrs	SOL runs from date of each individual charge
North Dakota	6 Yrs	Written acknowledgment, promise to pay, or payment restarts the SOL
Ohio	6 Yrs	Jdgmt can renew at 5 yrs
Oklahoma	5 Yrs	Jdgmt 5 yrs
Oregon	6 Yrs	Jdgmt 10 yrs
Pennsylvania	4 Yrs	Written acknowledgment, promise to pay or pymt restarts the SOL
Puerto Rico	3 Yrs	Jdgmt 15 yrs
Rhode Island	10 Yrs	Jdgmt 20 yrs.  Just slap me silly if I ever go nuts and move there!
South Carolina	3 Yrs	Written acknowledgment or partial pymt restarts the SOL
South Dakota	6 Yrs	Jdgmt 20 yrs.
Tennessee	6 Yrs	Jdgmt 10 yrs
Texas	4 Yrs	Pymt w/o acknowledgment doesn't restart the SOL
Utah	4 Yrs	Jdgmt 8 yrs. Written acknowledgment restarts SOL
Vermont	6 Yrs	Jdgmt 8 yrs
Virgin Islands	3 Yrs	Jdgmt 20 yrs
Virginia	3 Yrs	Jdgmt can renew at 10 yrs. Pymt w/o acknowledgment doesn't restart the SOL
Washington	6 Yrs	Jdgmt can renew at 10 yrs
West Virginia	5 Yrs	Acknowledging debt, promise to pay, any pymt restarts SOL. Be careful, it may apply to verbal/oral acknowledgment.
Wisconsin	6 Yrs	Pymt restarts the SOL
Wyoming	10 Yrs	Jdgmt 21 yrs. Again, just slap me silly if I ever go nuts and move there!

This information is believed to be correct as of the date of this post, but state laws and statutes can change.  You should also check your state statutes to verify that this information is correct, just to be on the safe side. Even though some states show that making a payment without an acknowledgement does not restart the SOL, to be on the safe side, Don't Make A Payment! Don't verbally or in writing admit that its your debt. Don't reaffirm, especially if you are near, at, or past the SOL. Doing any of these things will make the negative information stay on your credit longer. You're trying to improve your credit, not make it worse, right?

Again, just because you have hit the SOL for an alleged debt, it doesn't mean the lowlife, scumbag, junk debt buyers can't keep hounding you and keep trying to collect. If you are outside of the SOL, you will need to send them that C&D letter to make them go away.  I have a sample of one of the C&D letters I use on the post from April 30th, 2013 titled How To Stop Collectors and Creditors From Calling You. (It will open in a new window if you click this link).  

If you don't mind them calling you multiple times a day or using auto dialers, or any other violation of the FDCPA, FCRA, or TCPA (Telephone Consumer Protection Act), you can keep a notebook or log book and start documenting, then hit them with a "Notice of Demand" for their violations, notifying them if they don't remove the negative entries from your credit reports, you will be taking them to court.  There is a procedure for this, but I do have some friends that successfully have made some of them pay them as well as deleting the alleged accounts.

Well, hopefully this information will help you in your fight for better credit reports and good riddance of those pesky collectors.  If you need help with your credit repair, feel free to call or email me. I do respond and answer my phone.  If its a job you don't want to take on by yourself, again, just email or call me. My contact info is Waaaay up there at the top on the right (I know, this is a looooong post!). I would love to help you get the credit report that rightfully belongs to you!

How To Deal With Debt Collection Agencies ~ Part 2 (States With State Version Of The FDCPA)

The Fair Debt Collection Act (FDCPA) is a great weapon to use when repairing your credit.  However, it only applies to 3rd party collectors.  Most states have statutes or codes that deal with collections though they deal more with 3rd party conduct or contract terms.  But, there are a number of states that have their own version that mirrors the FDCPA except that it also includes original creditors.  So, when you are demanding validation, you will want to tell the 3rd party collectors that the demand for validation is pursuant to both the FDCPA and the state version. Unfortunately, some state Fair Credit laws or Fair Debt Collection laws or statutes  still do not include original creditors.  Some do include original creditors with the exception of demanding validation from them.  I will give you a not so well knowm tool to use also, that I recently found through research, that you can use for every single state, at the end of this post.  For now, here are the states with their own Fair Debt Collection Act that applies to original creditors:

State                Name of Law                                 Includes OC     
Arkansas -  AR Code Annotated  § 17-24-102         Yes                 
Mainly for conduct

California - Rosenthal Act                                     Yes                  
  Validation for Original Creditors (OC) is excluded

Connecticut - Connecticut FDCPA                          Yes                
Has a really interesting provision that sounds like they really
are not allowed to collect debts! It says:

1. § 36a-805   (3) purchase or receive assignments of claims for the purpose of collection or institute suit thereon in any court;

2. and § 36a-806 (b) No creditor shall retain, hire, or engage the services or continue to retain or engage the services of any other person who engages in the business of  a consumer collection agency and who is not licensed to act as such by the commissioner, if such creditor has actual knowledge that such person is not licensed by the commissioner to act as a consumer collection agency.

Florida - FL FDCPA & also                                  Yes
FL Consumer Collection Practices Act    ~ Not all rules apply to OC's or Lawyers

Iowa - Iowa FDCPA                                            Yes

Kansas - KS FDCPA                                            Yes
It really seems to only deal with banning illegal contracts and usury interest rates

Louisiana - LA FDCPA                                        Yes

Maine - Maine FDCPA                                        Yes but only if they use a different name for their collection division.   It mirrors the Federal FDCPA

Maryland - MD Consumer Debt Collection Act      Yes
This is a good one! Mirrors the FDCPA and includes OC's

Massachusetts - Consumer Debt Collection         Yes
Practices Regulations.  This is the first state to require OC's to VALIDATE!!

Michigan - Collection Practices Act                     Yes

New Hampshire - NH Debt Law                           Yes
Does not require an OC to validate

New York - NY Debt Collection Law                      Yes
Don't believe it includes validation for OC

North Carolina - NC Debt Collection Law              Yes
But it is for prohibiting unfair and deceptive practices

Oregon - OR Debt Collection Law                        Yes
Don't believe it includes validation for OC

Pennsylvania - Fair Credit Extension                    Yes
                         Uniformity Act
Concentrates on unfair and deceptive practices

South Carolina - SC Debt Collection Law              Yes

Texas - TX Debt Collection Act                             Yes

Vermont - VT FDCPA                                            Yes
OC's have to comply w/everything except validation

West Virginia - WV FDCPA                                  Yes
It appears that OC must validate

Wisconsin - Wisconsin Consumer Act                  Yes
Does not look like OC must validate

So, these are the states that definitely have some sort of debt collection law in place.  Now, most of them apply to unfair or deceptive business practices and not validation for original creditors.  You can dispute the alleged debt using the FCBA (Fair Credit Billing Act), which applies to all original creditors.  You can also use the FCRA (Fair Credit Reporting Act) if they are reporting on your credit.  You will want them to send you the hard copy documentation, which is their responsibility and also, its right there in the FCRA.  When you dispute with the bureaus, they are supposed to furnish your entire complaint/dispute to the creditor or furnisher of the information.  The bureaus have to also send you back the documented proof of the verification if you so request.

Now, here's my new secret weapon! It is the Uniform Commercial Code (UCC) and it is "universal" but every state has statutes, so they will have a matching state commercial code.  Here is the code and then I'll explain it to you if you still don't get it.

UCC 3-501(b)(2)-(3)

• (2) Upon demand of the person to whom presentment is made, the person making presentment must (i) exhibit the instrument, (ii) give reasonable identification and, if presentment is made on behalf of another person, reasonable evidence of authority to do so, and (iii) sign a receipt on the instrument for any payment made or surrender the instrument if full payment is made.
• (3) Without dishonoring the instrument, the party to whom presentment is made may (i) return the instrument for lack of a necessary endorsement, or (ii) refuse payment or acceptance, for failure of the presentment to comply with the terms of the instrument, an agreement of the parties, or other applicable law or rule.

What this is saying is that whoever (creditor or collector) presents you with a bill, you can require them to "show you the note" or negotiable instrument, which would be a promissory note or the signed agreement.  The note they show you must be the original.  This code does not say a copy of the instrument, it says "the instrument."  They need to show you the original or a certified copy of the original, front and back sides.  They also have to prove that they own the "note" or that they have the authority to collect on it.  If they can't produce, they are in dishonor and you can refuse to pay, without penalty and still be "in-honor."

UCC 3-502 also talks about making late payments.  It states that if one fails to make a timely payment, but then pay it late and they do cash it, then you are considered in honor. My opinion of this is that if its paid, even though late, and they cash it, they should not be able to report late payments, because they agreed to take the payment on a different date and cashed it, it is paid on time.  I may be wishful thinking, but I read it so many times and that's how it looks to me.  Here's what it says:

• (f) If a draft is dishonored because timely acceptance of the draft was not made and the person entitled to demand acceptance consents to a late acceptance, from the time of acceptance the draft is treated as never having been dishonored.

See the word "never" in there?  It will be treated as never having been late, because it was considered dishonored originally because it was not paid on time.  But, when they accept the payment and cash it, it should wipe out the late!  Anyhow, that is my interpretation of it.

I would say, use the FDCPA and the state laws for 3rd party collectors and use the state version alone with original creditors, and hope it is received by an ignorant employee who doesn't realize that the state version still doesn't require validation, and you can get away with it.  Also, don't forget to use the FCBA, these UCC codes, and find your corresponding state commercial code to use against them as well.

I hope this post helps you.  Check back in about a week for my next post which will let you know the Statute of Limitations for each state.  Its important to know these as you can use them to make 3rd party debt collectors and original creditors, go away!

As always, if your credit report is looking pretty bad with a bunch of negative trade lines and you don't want to tackle it all by yourself, contact me by email or phone.  My contact info is up at the top, on the right hand side.  I would love to be the one you choose to help you with a fresh start!

What Is A Validation Demand Letter?

If you are going to work on repairing your credit, you really need to know what a validation letter is, what is requested/demanded, who it goes to and why you can use this.  Many credit repair companies, and people who work on repairing their credit themselves, don't use the validation letter, and so, are not as successful at improving their credit report.

The law that gives you the right to demand validation is the Fair Debt Collection Practices Act (FDCPA).  It is a federal law.  The exact section of the law that requires them to validate when you request it is 15 USC 1692g Sec.809(b).  This law says:  "If the consumer notifies the debt collector in writing within the thirty-day period described in subsection (a) of this section that the debt, or any portion thereof, is disputed, or that the consumer requests the name and address of the original creditor, the debt collector shall cease collection of the debt, or any disputed portion thereof, until the debt collector obtains verification of the debt or a copy of a judgment, or the name and address of the original creditor, and a copy of such verification or judgment, or name and address of the original creditor, is mailed to the consumer by the debt collector. Collection activities and communications that do not otherwise violate this subchapter may continue during the 30-day period referred to in subsection (a) unless the consumer has notified the debt collector in writing that the debt, or any portion of the debt, is disputed or that the consumer requests the name and address of the original creditor. Any collection activities and communication during the 30-day period may not overshadow or be inconsistent with the disclosure of the consumer’s right to dispute the debt or request the name and address of the original creditor." 

You will notice that the law uses the word "Verification" but it actually tells them that they have to send you the copy of that Verification - the PROOF, which is the Validation, of the alleged debt.  Now, I know it says the 30 day period in there.  But this is when they obey the law and notify you within the first 5 days of initiating collection activity, that they are going to be trying to squeeze money out of you that doesn't belong to them and you have the right to dispute it.  You will also see that it says "verification of the debt."  You will notice that they don't want to send you the proof of the alleged debt, they only want to verify the name, address, original creditor info and amount, to you.  They don't like you to require them to send proof of the alleged debt because they can't.  They don't have a valid contract with you. 

Now, this law applies to all 3rd party collectors.  It does not apply to original creditors. For original creditors, many states have fair debt collection laws that mirror the FDCPA but also include original creditors.  I just love when my clients are in one of those states.  (I did another post sometime back about disputing with original creditors.  Look for it on my list of posts on the right side bar if you need help with them).  Now, at the end of this post, I'll touch more on this law above and clarify a bit more on it. 

You have the right to demand validation from your alleged collectors.  Most of the time you will know who they are because they report negative credit against you on your credit report.  Occasionally you will just get phone calls and letters in the mail from some obnoxious collection company that you don't see on your credit report.  I should warn you, though they might not be on one of the big 3, TransUnion, Experian, and Equifax, they might be reporting against you on Innovis, another big credit bureau that enjoys a lot of activity from collection agencies, and who hardly ever gets made aware of to unsuspecting consumers like you and me, so they can secretly destroy your credit without too much notice.

Validation is NOT Verification, though many collection companies love to mix the two up.  They do this for their convenience.  Its their little scapegoat method of avoiding the production of validation, which they cannot fully do.  You know when they're pulling this little scam, trying to convince you that they're right, you're not, you have to pay them.  Their response letters to your specific demand for validation will say something to the effect of, "We contacted the original creditor and they verified that the name, address, account number and amount we are reporting is correct." I didn't see the word "Validation" in that statement, did you?

Validation is the production of PROOF! Physical, paper, PROOF! Sometimes its an audio recording, you know, the crap that they insist on doing for "Quality Assurance?'  Validation is producing a contract between you and them.  You should want to see both sides of it, front and back, to prove there were no alterations rendering it void, after you signed it.  An alteration can be any markings, any staple marks, something that changed the piece of paper in any minute way after it was signed.  But, if they are a 3rd party collector, you don't have a contract with them.  They can't produce one because they buy alleged bad debts, they don't originate them.  

3rd party collectors should also prove that they have the right to collect on the alleged debt.  They should show the proof that they purchased it or were assigned it.  There are a number of states that require them to be licensed or bonded or both, to do any collection business there.  In fact, in Illinois, not only do they have to be licensed in the state, they have to be licensed in Chicago for any alleged debts they want to extort, um, attempt to collect on for Chicago residents.

Collectors also should provide validation in the form of a complete transaction history.  Every charge, every payment, every interest charge or other charges and fees for the entire life of the alleged debt.  There are case laws backing this up.  Another big thing that is required for validation is whether or not the alleged debt is Time-Barred.  This means it is outside the Statute of Limitations for your state.  This is a number of years that varies from state to state. It can be as little as 3 years to as long as 15 - which is absolutely ridiculous, I have to add.  This is a great way to make them go away.

I include a lot of things in my letters demanding validation. I tell them I want to see a contract between me and them. I want to see the front and back of it.  I want to see the full accounting and I put case law in there.  I want to see the documentation giving them the right to collect on the alleged debt. If the client is in a state that requires licensing/bonding, I tell them I want to see that. (I actually look them up every time for this, so that I can throw it in their faces if I see they are not, or they have been spanked by that state already).  I tell them I want them to prove that everything they are reporting on the credit reports is 100% accurate. I want them to prove the alleged debt is not outside the statute of limitations for my state.  (When I've checked and it is, I throw that at them too)!

Now, I actually get more intense on my letters.  I tell them they need to prove that they have a valid contract (at least the 4 basic elements) and that the original creditor had a valid contract, (at least the 4 basic elements), and I want to see that original contract, front and back.  I want them to prove there was no fraud committed.  I want them to provide the source of the funds that the original creditor used to actually lend the money that funded the credit.  (Oh, wait!  They don't lend money do they? They lend what is called "Credit Money" and that's illegal!  They create it out of thin air).

Towards the end of the letter I add a "Limited Cease and Desist" and a call to action.  The call to action is to prove it or remove it immediately. Prove it by providing me everything I requested, in writing, and not some cheapo, dummied up computer print out or hearsay typed onto the letter saying "we investigated and yep, we're doing everything accurately and you owe us".  The real deal.  The actual original or copies of the original documentation. 

You should be including most of these things in your letters to the 3rd party collectors. At the very least, they should be providing the contract between you and them, the contract between you and the original creditor, the full accounting, the proof they have the right to collect, proof they are accurately reporting to the bureaus, and proof the alleged debt is within your state's Statute of Limitations.   There are only 2-3 things in this list that they can lawfully provide that they can send you.  They can make claims that they validated fully, but that's a lie.  The only things they can really produce is the original contract (which is not a valid contract because the original creditors ALL commit fraud), their proof that they have the right to collect (which is paper proof for the game of collection but according to 73 AmJur 2nd Ed. Sect. 90, they have no right to collect anyway if they were not on the original valid contract), and whether or not the alleged debt is Time-Barred.

Now back to the FDCPA 15 USC 1692g Sect 809 (b).  This law mentions the 30 day period.  But, what if you are demanding validation after that original 30 day period, does it apply?  Yep, it sure does.  The 30 day period applies to you when they send you the original "Dunning Letter" within 5 days of starting to collect on the alleged account.  But, if you demand validation after that point, the law still applies.  They are required by law to produce the validation or cease collection activity.  Do they have to produce the validation?  Nope, but then, they also cannot resume collection activity until they do.  This law protects you!

Now, when you send out your demand for validation, you need to send it Certified Mail with Return Receipt. Costs a little over $6 for each letter but it is worth it, oh man, is it worth it.  If you get sued and they didn't validate, and you have the proof you demanded it, you can beat them in court.  That is proof of their violation of Federal Law!  Many times you will get a response back saying they will be removing it from all the credit bureaus. Love those!  Sometimes they give other stupid responses letting you know that they would rather continue to violate the law than obey it, because extorting money from people is their game and they don't stop without a fight.

To find out how to respond to them, look at the previous posts I wrote about a month or two ago I think, that tells how to fight back in your follow up letter.  Oh, one more thing, as soon as you get the green card back that proves they received your demand for validation, dispute with the bureaus.  It is against the law for them to verify (its considered collection activity) without first validating.  Many will come off by using this procedure - demand validation first, hit the bureaus with disputes second.  If they verify, they've just broken another law!

If you don't want to have to write all the letters yourself and would like me to help, please email or call me.  I love the game. I love helping you beat them! My email and phone number are up at the top, on the right hand side.  I answer emails and answer my phones.  I write letters for people in all 50 states.  The letters I write are not the junky stuff you find on the internet and they are not the form crap that the biggie credit law firms use to drag out the process (costing you more), and that don't work effectively all the time.  (See my post on credit law firms!)  I write great letters that get results! I'd love to write some for you too!

How To Stop Collectors and Creditors From Calling You

One of the most annoying things about having bad credit is getting phone calls from creditors and collectors.  You don't have to put up with it.  There is a very simple way to make the phone calls stop.  To do this, you send them a very simple letter called a "Cease and Desist" letter.

Now, you want to be careful here.  You don't want to send a "Full Cease and Desist" letter to everyone that is harassing you with those bothersome phone calls.  If you do, and you allegedly owe them a lot of money, then they will have no choice but to sue you.  So, instead, you will need to send them a "Limited Cease and Desist" letter.

The difference between the two letters is that the "Full" version stops them from contacting you at all, in any way, shape or form.  The "Limited" version stops them from calling you. The "Limited" version is what you are going to need to use most of the time.  Now, it does work, but you have to realize that if the calls keep coming, its because of one of two things. One, they don't care if they break the law, or two, they stop but they sell the alleged account to another bloodsucker and that collection company starts bugging you on the phone. 

Sometimes original creditors will claim that they have the right to contact you by phone, but they absolutely do NOT if you send them the "Limited Cease and Desist" letter.  You can tell them by phone but you will always need to follow up immediately in writing.  You can send it by fax if you have their fax number, or by email if you have that, but sending it by mail is best, and always with Certified Mail, Return Receipt.  That way, they know you are not messing around.

The only time I recommend sending the "Full Cease and Desist" letter is when the alleged account is absolutely outside of the Statute of Limitations for your state.  Even if it is a 3rd party collector that is calling, and you know if you've read much of this blog that they do not have any rights to collect anything to you, you must cover your you know what with them and not use it unless it is Time-Barred or it is so little of an alleged amount that it is not profitable for them to sue you.  Though its not profitable for them to sue you for a couple hundred dollars, they may tack on all kinds of legal fees, collection fees and court costs, to drive the price up and make it worth their while.  Also, make sure you have the documented proof that it is outside of your state's Statute of Limitations when you send them the "Full" version.

I include the "Limited" version on all letters that I write for my clients. It is the last paragraph on my demand for validation letters.  I modified it from the basic ones you find on the internet because I wanted to cover every single possible phone contact they could dream up.  Occasionally I use the "Full" version as well.  Now, I generally use this in a follow up letter to them when I know the Statute of Limitations has been reached and I know they know it, and they are still being annoying.  My "Full" version is not your typical one you find online either.  It is actually several paragraphs long because I put extra stuff on there to again attempt to force them to get their crap off the credit report.

Here are the two versions I wrote and use:

Limited Cease and Desist

I am requesting, in writing, that no telephone contact be made by your offices to my home, my cell phone, my place of employment, any friends, acquaintances, or family members. If your offices attempt telephone communication with me or people I may work for or know, it will be considered harassment and I will have no choice but to file suit. All communications with me MUST be done in writing and sent to the address noted in this letter. 

Full Cease and Desist

You are hereby notified under provisions of Public Laws 95-109 and 99-361, also known as the Fair Debt Collection Practices Act, that your services are not accepted and I refuse to contract with you. You and your organization must CEASE & DESIST all attempts to collect the above alleged debt. Failure to comply with this law will result in my immediately filing a complaint with the Federal Trade Commission, Consumer Financial Protection Bureau, and my state Attorney General's office. I will also pursue all criminal and civil claims against you and your company.

Furthermore, if any negative information is not removed from my credit bureau reports, or placed on my credit bureau reports by your company after receipt of this notice, I will have just cause to file suit against you and your organization, both personally and corporately, to seek any and all legal remedies available to me by law.

Please be aware that any telephone communications with me will be recorded for use against you in a court of law.  Your use of the telephone with me constitutes your agreement to my recording any and every communication from you via a telephone.

One more thing. If you can remember to do this, it can really benefit you.  Keep a journal or notepad that tracks all calls you receive. Note the company name, person who called, if it was a recorded message, the phone number, date and time of call, and the date you sent a "Cease and Desist" letter to them.

This is important because when you write to them, you will state every time they have called you.  You will remind them that you already sent a "C&D" to them on what date and you have the green certified receipt that they received and signed for it on whatever date. You may want to send them a bill charging them $1000 for every single call they made to you, another $1000 for every time they called your cell phone, $5000 every time they used a "Robodialer" and you have documented everything and have proof.  These are FTC and FDCPA violations. You could even offer them a settlement for their abusive practices to avoid being sued by you. Of course, your settlement conditions would include that they remove any trace of the alleged account from every credit report they furnished the bogus information to.

Good luck on your credit repair journey. As always, if you would like me to help you, I would love to be of assistance.  My contact information is up at the top, on the right.  If you leave a comment requesting help, please make sure you put your email in there so I can respond to you more effectively.

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